By Christina VanGinkel
My son's girlfriend stopped by yesterday to ask me a few questions about scrapbooking and to use my Wishblade Media Cutter. We ended up cutting a few titles and a few pictures for her to use in a number of layouts she is working on or planning. I also showed her how easy it is to use the Xyron 900, a multi use machine that can laminate all sorts of items, turn a piece of paper or cardstock into a full size sheet of ready to cut stickers, and work as a magnet maker all in one. Simply swap a cartridge and you seamlessly move from one task to the next. She looked as impressed as I was the first time I used it. I have a great fondness for that machine, even though I do not use it all of the time, often turning to one of my smaller Xyron sticker machines such as the X model, especially when I have just one or two small pieces I need transformed into a sticker.
While she was there, we also pulled out a few scrapbook magazines for her to browse through, and I showed her how I use different tools for more than what they were intended for. One example is how I use my embossing tools to help me lift cut letters and designs off the cutting mat of my Wishblade Media Cutter. While I had her rapt attention, I also told her to go through my paper and pick out a few sheets that she could use. I have an ever-growing collection of paper and embellishments and I actually get a thrill knowing that by sharing a few pieces of paper and an embellishment or two with someone, they will learn to love the hobby of scrapbooking that much more. Overall, it was a great way to spend some time with her.
Scrapbooking is such a multi faceted hobby that different scrappers reap different rewards from the time they spend scrapbooking or socializing in response to the hobby itself. While not everyone is a social scrapper, even those of us who enjoy scrapping in solitude, as I do, still benefit occasionally from such days as I had yesterday. Someone may ask us a question about scrapbooking, or comment to us on the fact that we scrap, or even offer us some supplies or past issues of scrap related magazines. Scrapbooking by nature is a hobby that brings out the gab in many of us. It can be the perfect hobby to share with a new group of friends, or friends you have known your whole life.
My grown daughter often stops by to use my supplies and tools, often leaving me paper and embellishments that she either bought with me in mind, or that she thought she might use, but decided she would not. She then passes the items to me. She will also call me up and ask me if I want to take a drive to the nearest scrapbook store, some fifty miles from where we live. (This is a new store, before, the closest store was roughly one hundred miles!) Scrapbooking has provided us a hobby in common that gives us something to do together, even though we rarely sit down side by side to work on a project. It has essentially become a stepping-stone from one generation to the next.
If you have younger children, scrapbooking is the perfect hobby to share with them too. The artistic side of it allows them to be creative, while the photos and journaling are great icebreakers for opening up dialogue and discussions with even the most reclusive pre teen or teenager. Even very young children can be included and will find the hobby fun. My three-year-old grandson loves to work in his scrapbook. It is a simple binder that he can store his 'layouts' in, and he loves showing them to everyone who is willing to listen and look.
Scrapbooking is quite the social hobby when you think about it, even if you consider yourself a scrapper who likes his or her solitude, as I do. If you are considering taking up scrapbooking for whatever reason, be sure to consider the additional benefit of socializing that often accompanies this most fascinating and fun hobby.
Monday, November 06, 2006
Rag work -Basic Techniques (By 4Ernesto)
There are many techniques that can be used; each technique has its own characteristics and each is suitable for different items.
Some of them are: Hooking, Prodding, Plaiting, Crochet, Knitting and Wrapping. Here I am going to give you instructions on how to use all these techniques.
HOOKING
This is the most common technique used in rag work, and also the most versatile. It lends itself to recycling and can revitalize many redundant materials, including plastics and foil as well as a huge range of fabrics, both natural and synthetic.
Strips of these materials are worked, or hooked, through a hessian backing cloth. They can be left as a loop pile surface, or sheared with scissors to create a cut pile surface. An effective use of hooking is to combine cut and loop pile within one piece. This gives a sculpted, three-dimensional appearance, as you can see in the Queen of Hearts and Mythological Beast projects.
1. Place one hand underneath the frame, and loop a strip of fabric between your thumb and forefinger. With your other hand above the frame, push the hook through the hessian. Feed the fabric loop on to the hook.
2. Pull the hook back up through the hessian, bringing the end of the strip of fabric through to the top.
3. Leave 1-2 warp threads of hessian to keep the loops close together. Push the hook back through the hessian and feed the fabric loop on to the hook, as before. Pull the hook back up through the hessian to make a loop, approximately 1 cm high. Continue. Bring the ends of fabric through to the top, and trim to the same height as the loops.
4. To create a cut pile surface, repeat steps 1-3 but hook the loops to a height of approximately 2 cm. Shear across the top of the loops with a large pair of scissors.
Sample Swatches of Hooked Materials
The most unlikely fabrics and materials can be incorporated within your work, and recycling is a natural, traditional approach to exploring the technique of hooking.
- Sea Green Knitted Cotton Jersey T-Shirt Fabric
Works well for both cut and loop pile surfaces. Results in a highly durable surface, suitable for rugs.
- Red Foil Crisps Packets
Loop pile gives the most interesting results. Good for jewellery and other fashion accessories.
- Tan-coloured Nylon Tights
It works with both surfaces, quite diverse results. Suitable for most projects. Try other colours.
- Petrol Blue Knitted Woollen Dress Fabric
This fabric felts when machine-washed on a high temperature setting. Versatile, good for use in any project.
- Rust-coloured Satin Coat Lining Fabric
Look beyond a coat's exterior - linings are available in many colours. It is most suitable for hats, bags and wall hangings.
- Denim Jeans
Denim can be used by itself to great effect; combining washed and faded denim with darker indigo shades. Very hard-wearing, hooked denim floor rugs have a long lifespan.
- Mint Green Patterned Crimplene Dress Fabric
Not known for its beauty in its former life but very effective here. Numerous uses in interior and fashion projects.
- Green Plastic Carrier Bag
Slips through the hessian with the greatest of ease! Waterproof - suitable for bathmats, jewellery, wall pieces.
- Lemon Yellow Acrylic / Wool Blanket
Cut thicker, heavier weight fabric into thinner strips. Excellent wearing properties, this is most suitable for floor rugs.
- Red Tartan Kilt Fabric
Woven and printed fabrics help to break up areas of flat colour. Little difference between the look of the loop and cut surfaces. Good for decoration..
PRODDING
The prodding technique is also known as proggie, peggy, tabbie, poked and brodded, to name but a few of the regional variations. Traditionally wool clippings from old, worn clothing and blankets were used to make "clippy" mats.
This technique is worked from the reverse side of the backing. Prodding creates a deep, shaggy surface and works well for soft, thick textured rugs or wall hangings. Designs tend to have an impressionistic look, as the details are blurred due to the surface pile.
1. Prepare the fabrics by cutting them into clippings 7 x 1½ cm. Working on the underside of the frame, make a hole with the tapered end of the prodder. Take a clipping and prod it halfway through the hessian, using the prodder. Use your other hand on the other side to catch and pull the fabric down to approximately half its length.
2. Make another hole with the prodder a bit less than 1 cm away, or 4-5 warp threads of hessian.
3. Prod the other end of the clipping through this hole. Using your hand underneath, tug both ends of the clipping until they are of even length. Continue by prodding the next clipping through the same hole as the end of the first clipping.
PLAITING
Plaiting is strongly associated with American folk art. Three strips of fabric are first plaited together. The plaits are then joined by machine or hand stitched. They can be wound into circular shapes or worked into square or rectangular rugs.
1. Plaiting is much easier if you first fasten the ends of the fabric strips together with a safety pin, and hook this over a cuphook screwed into the wall. Start the plaiting near the safety pin. Bring the right-hand strip over the middle strip, then bring the left-hand strip over the new middle strip. Continue plaiting, turning the raw edges under as much as possible, until you are left with about 20 cm unplaited. Secure the end with a pin.
2. Remove the safety pin and taper the beginning of the plait, trimming as necessary. Stitch neatly to conceal the raw edges when joining the plaits.
CROCHET
In recent years, experimental crochet work has moved away from the tradition of using wool. Using fabric strips creates beautifully subtle changes within colour tones, and the technique works well in three-dimensional projects, such as the Crochet Duffel Bag.
Crochet is also useful for joining knitted pieces together.
Abbreviations
ch: chain
dc: double crochet
lp: loop
sc: single crochet
st: stitch
sl st: slip stitch
tr: treble
yoh: yarn over hook
Making Foundation Chain
Chain stitch is the foundation stitch on to which further stitches are worked. Make a slip loop to form first stitch. Yoh, draw through lp. Repeat until ch reaches desired length.
Slip Stitch
This is used for joining pieces. Sl st, skip 1 ch, insert hook under top lp of next ch. Yoh, draw through ch and lp on hook (1 sl st formed). Repeat to end of ch. Turn, make 1 ch and continue, working next sl st under both lps of 2nd st from hook. Work last sl st of row into last ch.
Double Crochet
This is used to edge knitting. Skip 1 ch, insert hook under top lp of next ch. Yoh, draw through ch only. Yoh and draw through both lps on hook (1 dc formed). Repeat to end of ch. Work last dc of row into last ch. Turn, make 1 ch and continue, working the next dc under both lps of 2nd st from hook.
Treble
Very durable, this is ideal for the bases of various bags. Skip 3 ch, yoh, insert hook under top lp of next ch, yoh and draw through ch only (3 lps on hook). Yoh, draw through next 2lps on hook (2 lps on hook). Yoh, draw through 2 remaining lps on hook (1 tr formed). Repeat to end of ch. Turn, make 3 ch and continue, working next tr under both lps of 2nd st from hook. Work last tr of row into the last ch of previous row.
Knitting
Knitting with fabric strips is an interesting and fun alternative to using wool. Patterned cotton fabrics work particularly well - as the number of stitches grows on the needles, both the top and underside of the fabrics are exposed, revealing softer tones within the colour variations. For a patchwork effect, knit squares of different fabric strips and join together with crochet.
Casting on
Make a slip loop on the left needle to form the first stitch. Insert the right needle through the loop. Wrap the yarn forward, under and over the right needle. Draw the new loop through the slip loop and pass it on to the left needle. Repeat to create as many stitches as you need.
Plain Knit or Garter Stitch
Plain knit, or garter, stitch is the simplest of all knitting stitches. Every stitch of every row is knitted. Hold the working needle in your right hand like a pencil.
Insert the right needle through the first loop on the left needle. Wrap the yarn forward, under and over the right needle. Draw the stitch forward and under and slop it off the left needle on to the right. Repeat to the end of the row, then turn the work and knit the next row.
Casting off
Knit the first two stitches as usual. Insert the left needle under the first stitch made, from left to right. Lift the stitch up and over the second stitch and over the point of the needle. Knit the next stitch from the left needle and repeat the process to the end of the row. Cut the end of the yarn and draw it through the final stitch to finish off.
WRAPPING
This technique uses very little material. Strips of fabrics are bound together with coloured embroidery threads to create wallhangings. Wire can be added to create beautiful, sculptural jewellery.
1. Select three different fabrics, and cut into strips 1 cm wide. Choose a coloured embroidery thread to enhance the fabrics' colours. Pinch the strips tightly together in one hand. Working from the right, with the other hand start to bind the thread closely around the fabric strips.
2. Continue binding with the thread until you wish to change the fabric. Add a loop of thicker yarn, with the loop facing the end you have been working from. Continue to wrap the thread around this.
3. Thread the remaining embroidery thread through the loop. Pull the two ends of the thicker looped yarn towards the left until the thread is fastened off.
Some of them are: Hooking, Prodding, Plaiting, Crochet, Knitting and Wrapping. Here I am going to give you instructions on how to use all these techniques.
HOOKING
This is the most common technique used in rag work, and also the most versatile. It lends itself to recycling and can revitalize many redundant materials, including plastics and foil as well as a huge range of fabrics, both natural and synthetic.
Strips of these materials are worked, or hooked, through a hessian backing cloth. They can be left as a loop pile surface, or sheared with scissors to create a cut pile surface. An effective use of hooking is to combine cut and loop pile within one piece. This gives a sculpted, three-dimensional appearance, as you can see in the Queen of Hearts and Mythological Beast projects.
1. Place one hand underneath the frame, and loop a strip of fabric between your thumb and forefinger. With your other hand above the frame, push the hook through the hessian. Feed the fabric loop on to the hook.
2. Pull the hook back up through the hessian, bringing the end of the strip of fabric through to the top.
3. Leave 1-2 warp threads of hessian to keep the loops close together. Push the hook back through the hessian and feed the fabric loop on to the hook, as before. Pull the hook back up through the hessian to make a loop, approximately 1 cm high. Continue. Bring the ends of fabric through to the top, and trim to the same height as the loops.
4. To create a cut pile surface, repeat steps 1-3 but hook the loops to a height of approximately 2 cm. Shear across the top of the loops with a large pair of scissors.
Sample Swatches of Hooked Materials
The most unlikely fabrics and materials can be incorporated within your work, and recycling is a natural, traditional approach to exploring the technique of hooking.
- Sea Green Knitted Cotton Jersey T-Shirt Fabric
Works well for both cut and loop pile surfaces. Results in a highly durable surface, suitable for rugs.
- Red Foil Crisps Packets
Loop pile gives the most interesting results. Good for jewellery and other fashion accessories.
- Tan-coloured Nylon Tights
It works with both surfaces, quite diverse results. Suitable for most projects. Try other colours.
- Petrol Blue Knitted Woollen Dress Fabric
This fabric felts when machine-washed on a high temperature setting. Versatile, good for use in any project.
- Rust-coloured Satin Coat Lining Fabric
Look beyond a coat's exterior - linings are available in many colours. It is most suitable for hats, bags and wall hangings.
- Denim Jeans
Denim can be used by itself to great effect; combining washed and faded denim with darker indigo shades. Very hard-wearing, hooked denim floor rugs have a long lifespan.
- Mint Green Patterned Crimplene Dress Fabric
Not known for its beauty in its former life but very effective here. Numerous uses in interior and fashion projects.
- Green Plastic Carrier Bag
Slips through the hessian with the greatest of ease! Waterproof - suitable for bathmats, jewellery, wall pieces.
- Lemon Yellow Acrylic / Wool Blanket
Cut thicker, heavier weight fabric into thinner strips. Excellent wearing properties, this is most suitable for floor rugs.
- Red Tartan Kilt Fabric
Woven and printed fabrics help to break up areas of flat colour. Little difference between the look of the loop and cut surfaces. Good for decoration..
PRODDING
The prodding technique is also known as proggie, peggy, tabbie, poked and brodded, to name but a few of the regional variations. Traditionally wool clippings from old, worn clothing and blankets were used to make "clippy" mats.
This technique is worked from the reverse side of the backing. Prodding creates a deep, shaggy surface and works well for soft, thick textured rugs or wall hangings. Designs tend to have an impressionistic look, as the details are blurred due to the surface pile.
1. Prepare the fabrics by cutting them into clippings 7 x 1½ cm. Working on the underside of the frame, make a hole with the tapered end of the prodder. Take a clipping and prod it halfway through the hessian, using the prodder. Use your other hand on the other side to catch and pull the fabric down to approximately half its length.
2. Make another hole with the prodder a bit less than 1 cm away, or 4-5 warp threads of hessian.
3. Prod the other end of the clipping through this hole. Using your hand underneath, tug both ends of the clipping until they are of even length. Continue by prodding the next clipping through the same hole as the end of the first clipping.
PLAITING
Plaiting is strongly associated with American folk art. Three strips of fabric are first plaited together. The plaits are then joined by machine or hand stitched. They can be wound into circular shapes or worked into square or rectangular rugs.
1. Plaiting is much easier if you first fasten the ends of the fabric strips together with a safety pin, and hook this over a cuphook screwed into the wall. Start the plaiting near the safety pin. Bring the right-hand strip over the middle strip, then bring the left-hand strip over the new middle strip. Continue plaiting, turning the raw edges under as much as possible, until you are left with about 20 cm unplaited. Secure the end with a pin.
2. Remove the safety pin and taper the beginning of the plait, trimming as necessary. Stitch neatly to conceal the raw edges when joining the plaits.
CROCHET
In recent years, experimental crochet work has moved away from the tradition of using wool. Using fabric strips creates beautifully subtle changes within colour tones, and the technique works well in three-dimensional projects, such as the Crochet Duffel Bag.
Crochet is also useful for joining knitted pieces together.
Abbreviations
ch: chain
dc: double crochet
lp: loop
sc: single crochet
st: stitch
sl st: slip stitch
tr: treble
yoh: yarn over hook
Making Foundation Chain
Chain stitch is the foundation stitch on to which further stitches are worked. Make a slip loop to form first stitch. Yoh, draw through lp. Repeat until ch reaches desired length.
Slip Stitch
This is used for joining pieces. Sl st, skip 1 ch, insert hook under top lp of next ch. Yoh, draw through ch and lp on hook (1 sl st formed). Repeat to end of ch. Turn, make 1 ch and continue, working next sl st under both lps of 2nd st from hook. Work last sl st of row into last ch.
Double Crochet
This is used to edge knitting. Skip 1 ch, insert hook under top lp of next ch. Yoh, draw through ch only. Yoh and draw through both lps on hook (1 dc formed). Repeat to end of ch. Work last dc of row into last ch. Turn, make 1 ch and continue, working the next dc under both lps of 2nd st from hook.
Treble
Very durable, this is ideal for the bases of various bags. Skip 3 ch, yoh, insert hook under top lp of next ch, yoh and draw through ch only (3 lps on hook). Yoh, draw through next 2lps on hook (2 lps on hook). Yoh, draw through 2 remaining lps on hook (1 tr formed). Repeat to end of ch. Turn, make 3 ch and continue, working next tr under both lps of 2nd st from hook. Work last tr of row into the last ch of previous row.
Knitting
Knitting with fabric strips is an interesting and fun alternative to using wool. Patterned cotton fabrics work particularly well - as the number of stitches grows on the needles, both the top and underside of the fabrics are exposed, revealing softer tones within the colour variations. For a patchwork effect, knit squares of different fabric strips and join together with crochet.
Casting on
Make a slip loop on the left needle to form the first stitch. Insert the right needle through the loop. Wrap the yarn forward, under and over the right needle. Draw the new loop through the slip loop and pass it on to the left needle. Repeat to create as many stitches as you need.
Plain Knit or Garter Stitch
Plain knit, or garter, stitch is the simplest of all knitting stitches. Every stitch of every row is knitted. Hold the working needle in your right hand like a pencil.
Insert the right needle through the first loop on the left needle. Wrap the yarn forward, under and over the right needle. Draw the stitch forward and under and slop it off the left needle on to the right. Repeat to the end of the row, then turn the work and knit the next row.
Casting off
Knit the first two stitches as usual. Insert the left needle under the first stitch made, from left to right. Lift the stitch up and over the second stitch and over the point of the needle. Knit the next stitch from the left needle and repeat the process to the end of the row. Cut the end of the yarn and draw it through the final stitch to finish off.
WRAPPING
This technique uses very little material. Strips of fabrics are bound together with coloured embroidery threads to create wallhangings. Wire can be added to create beautiful, sculptural jewellery.
1. Select three different fabrics, and cut into strips 1 cm wide. Choose a coloured embroidery thread to enhance the fabrics' colours. Pinch the strips tightly together in one hand. Working from the right, with the other hand start to bind the thread closely around the fabric strips.
2. Continue binding with the thread until you wish to change the fabric. Add a loop of thicker yarn, with the loop facing the end you have been working from. Continue to wrap the thread around this.
3. Thread the remaining embroidery thread through the loop. Pull the two ends of the thicker looped yarn towards the left until the thread is fastened off.
Friday, November 03, 2006
Framing Materials and Equipment (By 4Ernesto)
Frames have existed in one form or another across every civilisation for centuries. A frame gives importance and power to the image within, drawing the eye and holding the viewer's attention. Decorative painted borders are perhaps the first kind of frame. The most basic "frame" surely is to take the floor as the first horizontal, the ceiling as the second, and to create the vertical lines with pillars. This creates an area to view within four borders. Many cultures experimented with this concept.
To make a frame, you only need to spend a small amount of money: a mitre block, wood glue, a saw and some nails. However, there is equipment on the market that helps to ensure straight cuts, seamless corners and good right-angle frames. I will list the simpler equipment you need, along with a few more expensive items. Allow yourself plenty of time and find a place to work which gives you enough room.
FRAMING
Mitre Block
A traditional piece of equipment which is used in conjunction with a tenon saw to create accurate 45 degree cuts. This is vital when creating a traditional square or rectangular frame as you must ensure the moulding is cut precisely. A mitre block is not very expensive and is available from most hardware or DIY stores. You will also need a piece of 5 x 2.5 cm (2 x 1 in.) scrap timber to put inside the block when sawing your moulding.
Tenon Saw
Although any ordinary hand saw will suffice, a tenon saw is recommended for use in a mitre block as it is sturdier and will give you more control.
Wooden Mouldings
These form the basis of most traditional square or rectangular frames. There are many stockists of mouldings. For the widest selection, contact a framing specialist, although timber merchants, some builders' merchants and DIY stores stock mouldings, and it is worth finding somewhere which stocks a wide selection and sells small quantities. If you can obtain a catalogue of mouldings, it is fun to browse through this at your leisure in the comfort of your own home.
Hand Drill
Small drills are available for intricate work, but a standard hand drill can be used for framing. If the drill bits are too large, you can cut the headings off moulding pins and use these instead.
Moulding pins or Veneer pins
These are better than panel pins as they are sharper and thinner and they will not split the frame when you hammer them in place.
Wood Adhesive
Used for gluing mouldings together, white PVA based wood adhesive is available from hardware and DIY stores.
Hammer
Choose a middleweight hammer. Anything too heavy will probably be difficult to handle; likewise if the hammer does not have sufficient weight, you will have to use more force than is necessary.
Sandpaper
All frames will need sanding to smooth joints, or in preparation for paint or stain. Use a fine grade sandpaper available from any hardware or DIY store.
Mitre Clamp
This will ensure you can glue and nail your components into a true right angle. It holds the wood by clamping it tightly together. Some clamps have an extension so that you can put right-angle moulding pins in from the back of the frame. This is recommended if you are doing a lot of framing. This will only be available from framing specialists. A simple mitre clamp should also be available from carpenters' suppliers.
Frame Clamp
This will hold your frame at true right angles while the glue dries. It is not very expensive to buy from a specialist supplier, but you can make your own from four solid 45 degree angles and piece of string.
"D" rings
These are used with screws or split pins to hang the picture on the wall. The advantage is that they keep the frame fairly flat against the wall. They are available through some glass merchants or through framing catalogues and stockists.
Screw Eyes
You may prefer to use these as an alternative to D rings, but they will hold the frame slightly away from the wall.
Cord or Wire
I prefer using nylon cord to traditional picture wire. However, a very heavy picture will require wire. Nylon cord is available from DIY stores, picture framers and haberdashery departments.
Mitre Saw
If you plan to make a lot of frames, a mitre saw is an easier way of cutting to an angle. It will also allow you to make hexagonal shapes as you can choose the angle you want to cut. A mitre saw is available from DIY stores or tool stockists but is generally expensive and, if you are inexperienced at using one, it will take some practice to develop the skill to operate it.
MOUNTING
Mounting materials must - above all - be clean and straight-edged, and the blade in your knife must be sharp. The better the conditions of your tools, the more professional the result will be.
Mount Board
There are many colours of mount board available: from white to black, marbled to mottled. Keep the board stored in a clean, dry place and preferably flat rather than standing on its edge. Most suppliers should let you have a sample book which you can keep at home for reference.
Coloured mount board is basically a white board with decorative paper adhered to both sides, so no matter what colour you buy, the edge will show white when you cut it.
Mount board is available from art suppliers, but framing specialists will stock a larger range.
Cutting Mat
This is an essential part of mounting, providing a safe and clean surface on which to cut your board. The mat is a self-healing rubber which allows you to put pressure on your knife without damaging the blade. Ensure you have plenty of space around the mat as a cramped space creates wobbly cutting. Most art and craft suppliers will stock cutting mats.
"T" Square
A "T" square with a rubberized backing is very useful for cutting. it does not slip and will ensure you cut at a right angle.
Cutting Knife
Choose a strong steel craft knife.
Mount Cutter
A small, hand-held mount cutter is quite inexpensive and easy to use. Most art and craft suppliers will be able to obtain one for you, even if they do not have one in stock. Buy extra blades so that the one you use is always razor sharp.
The mount cutter is still only a piece of hobby equipment and not a professional item, so it is not extremely expensive. It is very easy to operate and will guarantee a straight and accurate line every time. It is a good investment if you are planning lots of framing and mounting.
Tape
There are a variety of tapes on the market, but brown paper tape is the most useful to the framer. Use it to stick artwork on to a background. Because the tape is made of paper it will react to ambient conditions in the same way as the art work itself, so you will avoid any creasing or buckling. A ready-gummed brown tape is good for sealing the back of the frame as it will prevent dampness from entering and mouldering the mount and picture inside.
Although masking tape is handy, it is best only used for temporary positioning, as the brown tapes are longer-lasting and superior.
Scissors
Only use scissors for tape or paper. Do not attempt to cut board with them as you will never achieve a completely straight and true line.
Other Items
A clean, clear ruler is useful for measuring and drawing lines. Use an "H" pencil with a sharp pint for accurate line drawing. Keep an artist's soft eraser to hand for removing dirty finger marks or erasing mistakes.
Later on I will give you some information about Stains, Paints and Wood Finishes.
To make a frame, you only need to spend a small amount of money: a mitre block, wood glue, a saw and some nails. However, there is equipment on the market that helps to ensure straight cuts, seamless corners and good right-angle frames. I will list the simpler equipment you need, along with a few more expensive items. Allow yourself plenty of time and find a place to work which gives you enough room.
FRAMING
Mitre Block
A traditional piece of equipment which is used in conjunction with a tenon saw to create accurate 45 degree cuts. This is vital when creating a traditional square or rectangular frame as you must ensure the moulding is cut precisely. A mitre block is not very expensive and is available from most hardware or DIY stores. You will also need a piece of 5 x 2.5 cm (2 x 1 in.) scrap timber to put inside the block when sawing your moulding.
Tenon Saw
Although any ordinary hand saw will suffice, a tenon saw is recommended for use in a mitre block as it is sturdier and will give you more control.
Wooden Mouldings
These form the basis of most traditional square or rectangular frames. There are many stockists of mouldings. For the widest selection, contact a framing specialist, although timber merchants, some builders' merchants and DIY stores stock mouldings, and it is worth finding somewhere which stocks a wide selection and sells small quantities. If you can obtain a catalogue of mouldings, it is fun to browse through this at your leisure in the comfort of your own home.
Hand Drill
Small drills are available for intricate work, but a standard hand drill can be used for framing. If the drill bits are too large, you can cut the headings off moulding pins and use these instead.
Moulding pins or Veneer pins
These are better than panel pins as they are sharper and thinner and they will not split the frame when you hammer them in place.
Wood Adhesive
Used for gluing mouldings together, white PVA based wood adhesive is available from hardware and DIY stores.
Hammer
Choose a middleweight hammer. Anything too heavy will probably be difficult to handle; likewise if the hammer does not have sufficient weight, you will have to use more force than is necessary.
Sandpaper
All frames will need sanding to smooth joints, or in preparation for paint or stain. Use a fine grade sandpaper available from any hardware or DIY store.
Mitre Clamp
This will ensure you can glue and nail your components into a true right angle. It holds the wood by clamping it tightly together. Some clamps have an extension so that you can put right-angle moulding pins in from the back of the frame. This is recommended if you are doing a lot of framing. This will only be available from framing specialists. A simple mitre clamp should also be available from carpenters' suppliers.
Frame Clamp
This will hold your frame at true right angles while the glue dries. It is not very expensive to buy from a specialist supplier, but you can make your own from four solid 45 degree angles and piece of string.
"D" rings
These are used with screws or split pins to hang the picture on the wall. The advantage is that they keep the frame fairly flat against the wall. They are available through some glass merchants or through framing catalogues and stockists.
Screw Eyes
You may prefer to use these as an alternative to D rings, but they will hold the frame slightly away from the wall.
Cord or Wire
I prefer using nylon cord to traditional picture wire. However, a very heavy picture will require wire. Nylon cord is available from DIY stores, picture framers and haberdashery departments.
Mitre Saw
If you plan to make a lot of frames, a mitre saw is an easier way of cutting to an angle. It will also allow you to make hexagonal shapes as you can choose the angle you want to cut. A mitre saw is available from DIY stores or tool stockists but is generally expensive and, if you are inexperienced at using one, it will take some practice to develop the skill to operate it.
MOUNTING
Mounting materials must - above all - be clean and straight-edged, and the blade in your knife must be sharp. The better the conditions of your tools, the more professional the result will be.
Mount Board
There are many colours of mount board available: from white to black, marbled to mottled. Keep the board stored in a clean, dry place and preferably flat rather than standing on its edge. Most suppliers should let you have a sample book which you can keep at home for reference.
Coloured mount board is basically a white board with decorative paper adhered to both sides, so no matter what colour you buy, the edge will show white when you cut it.
Mount board is available from art suppliers, but framing specialists will stock a larger range.
Cutting Mat
This is an essential part of mounting, providing a safe and clean surface on which to cut your board. The mat is a self-healing rubber which allows you to put pressure on your knife without damaging the blade. Ensure you have plenty of space around the mat as a cramped space creates wobbly cutting. Most art and craft suppliers will stock cutting mats.
"T" Square
A "T" square with a rubberized backing is very useful for cutting. it does not slip and will ensure you cut at a right angle.
Cutting Knife
Choose a strong steel craft knife.
Mount Cutter
A small, hand-held mount cutter is quite inexpensive and easy to use. Most art and craft suppliers will be able to obtain one for you, even if they do not have one in stock. Buy extra blades so that the one you use is always razor sharp.
The mount cutter is still only a piece of hobby equipment and not a professional item, so it is not extremely expensive. It is very easy to operate and will guarantee a straight and accurate line every time. It is a good investment if you are planning lots of framing and mounting.
Tape
There are a variety of tapes on the market, but brown paper tape is the most useful to the framer. Use it to stick artwork on to a background. Because the tape is made of paper it will react to ambient conditions in the same way as the art work itself, so you will avoid any creasing or buckling. A ready-gummed brown tape is good for sealing the back of the frame as it will prevent dampness from entering and mouldering the mount and picture inside.
Although masking tape is handy, it is best only used for temporary positioning, as the brown tapes are longer-lasting and superior.
Scissors
Only use scissors for tape or paper. Do not attempt to cut board with them as you will never achieve a completely straight and true line.
Other Items
A clean, clear ruler is useful for measuring and drawing lines. Use an "H" pencil with a sharp pint for accurate line drawing. Keep an artist's soft eraser to hand for removing dirty finger marks or erasing mistakes.
Later on I will give you some information about Stains, Paints and Wood Finishes.
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