By Christina VanGinkel
When giving one of your handcrafted products as a gift, whether during the holidays or at some other time of the year, it is the presentation that can often make it stand out from the crowd. By taking care with not only the making of the gift, but also how you package and present it, you will show the recipient that you cared enough about what you made to present it as well as you could. Finding products to package your wares in, is not always easy, until now that is, especially if what you want is clear packaging that will showcase your talents instead of some other sort of packaging that is going to cover it up. While this sort of packaging is often seen in stores, finding a retail outlet for it has not always been easy.
I have often relied on clear cellophane and other products with a completely different purpose, that I have altered a bit to fit my crafts for gift giving occasions. For example, I recently wrapped a handcrafted candle in a clear wrap, which was actually a page protector. I cut off the edge where the holes were, set the candle in, flattening the bottom, then twisting the top closed and tying with a decorative ribbon. However, finding a solution such as this is not always easy. In addition, while this looked okay, in truth, I would have preferred to have found a container to set the candle in where nothing would have touched the surface of it, save for the bottom. The candle was embellished with a photograph that held special meaning to the recipient and I wished they could see the picture clearly, right from the start.
Recently though, I came across an outlet, that sells to the average consumer a wide assortment of plastic bags and specialty packaging. If you happen to be a scrap booker or paper crafter, this is the ideal place to shop for all of your packaging needs. The store is named ClearBags and is an online store. I actually found out about it when I read an article in a magazine about making bookmarks with paper craft supplies, and the article referenced the website as an outlet for their clear hanging bookmark sleeves.
From glassine envelopes and vellum envelopes, to hanging bookmark sleeves, to soft fold clear boxes (a perfect solution for my handcrafted candles) and pillow boxes, and a huge assortment of other clear packaging products, you will be able to pack up your creations in the fine design they are worthy of.
ClearBags also carries other packaging items for your crafting products, including a full line of StazOn Ink Pads, Slick writers, ribbon, and page protectors, hang tags, and just about any product you might need to package or protect all of your hard work.
When I first visited their site, my first thought when I saw the wide assortment of items they had available, was that their pricing structure was bound to be of a level that the average consumer was not going to be able to afford to buy from them. Most of the items they have available are set up to be purchased in bulk. Once I started browsing though, I realized that even an individual could afford to shop them. They do have an additional handling cost for orders less than a certain dollar amount, in addition to their regular shipping charges, but even that is minimal and is no more than seven dollars, and often only three dollars.
Many of the products do ship in quantities of 100 or more, so ordering with someone else or as a group, might be wise. If you belong to a woman or church group, or a group related directly to your crafting endeavors, all of these can be great places to find others to order supplies such as these with. Some online groups even post opportunities for ordering from such outlets. For example, one of the items that I was really interested in were their clear bookmark sleeves with a punched hole for running a ribbon or other material through to hang. They are available in quantities of 100, 200, 1000, or 2000. If I ordered 100 the cost would have been 16 cents apiece, and the cost of shipping and a handling fee for ordering less than forty dollars worth. By combining my order with one other person, with each of us ordering 100, the unit price dropped to 12 cents apiece, and the handling charge was half of what it would have been on my individual order.
Monday, December 11, 2006
Thursday, December 07, 2006
Basic Techniques for framing (By 4Ernesto)
If you enjoy DIY or woodwork this article will present you with little difficulty. If, on the other hand, you are an absolute beginner, do not be daunted as these fundamental skills are perfected with practice. You need only the most basic tools - just remember to keep knives and blades sharp, let the saw - not your arm - do the work. It is worth bearing in mind that any carpentry work will be messy, and should be carried out well away from any mounting, which must be kept as clean as possible.
Making a Frame
- begin by preparing the mitre block. You might find it easier to screw it on to your work surface to prevent it from moving about. Place a piece of 5 x 2.5 cm wood inside to lift up the floor of the block. Place one end of your wood or moulding in the mitre block, hold it firmly against the inside edge and cut it to an angle of 45 degrees with a tenon saw.
- Measure along the length from the outer edge of the corner you have just cut and mark with a pencil. Place the wood back in the block and cut it at the opposite 45 degree angle inwards from your mark. Repeat this on the other three pieces of moulding until you have four pieces the correct size.
- At this point, check your frame sits neatly together. If not, trim off a little all round.
- Place two edges into the mitre clamp, put a little wood adhesive into the join and clamp the pieces together. Using strong pliers take the head off a moulding pin and use this instead of a drill bit in a hand drill. Drill a hole at an angle joining the two pieces together. Hammer in another moulding pin. Repeat this on the other three corners.
- At this stage, you can check your corners are square and leave the frame to dry overnight. However, to be sure the frame is accurate and true, use a frame clamp. Place the frame inside the clamp and tighten the angles around it. Leave it in this position until it is dry.
- If there are any open joints, you can fill them quite neatly and quickly with fine sawdust and a little wood adhesive. When dry, the joints can be sanded smooth.
Staining
- There are a variety of stains available. For the best finish, use a cloth to apply the wood stain. You can build up the colour by applying further coats, leaving each one to dry before adding the next. When the frame is completely dry, apply a little wax to the surface. Let the wax soak into the wood before buffing it with a soft cloth. Another coat of wax will add even more lustre.
Mounting and Fixing
- Instead of simply framing your piece of art, mounting it with special board can enhance it tremendously if time is taken to do it well. Mount board is available in a wide selection of colours, but a simple cream or white mount will often be the answer. It is also possible to double mount. This is to place a darker colour down first then a larger, lighter colour on top to create an inner frame.
- The most important aspect of successful mounting is to use clean, sharp equipment. Any finger-marks, grease or rough edges will be quickly noticed. Give yourself plenty of space and time and ensure all your cutting tools have sharp blades.
- Select a mount to complement your picture and decide what area of the picture you would like to see. It is usual to mount a picture with an equal amount of border all around, perhaps giving the lower border a little more width.
- Turn the frame over and measure the inside edge to edge. Using the cutting mat, set square and knife, cut out a piece of board the same size as the inside of the frame.
- With the good side facing down, decide how large you want the window to be. Take the window measurement away from the frame measurement and divide the remainder in two. This is the distance from the side. Draw out the rectangle and raise the lower line by a few millimetres (fractions of an inch) if you wish.
- Here, a small mount cutter is used; this will cut the edges of the window at a 45 degree angle. Cut out the shape from the back; be cautious at the corners and if you are unsure, practise on some scrap board first.
- Measure the back of the frame and have a piece of glass cut to fit (you can do this yourself if you use a glass cutter and straight edge). You will also need to saw a piece of hardboard to the same size. Both pieces should fit easily into the back of the frame. Drill small holes into the back of the hardboard to accommodate the D rings. (You may prefer to screw the D rings into the back verticals of the frame itself.)
- Using brown paper gummed tape, stick the print down on the back of the mount, checking your image is straight. Place all the pieces into the frame and with a hammer, nail small panel pins into the sides of the frame to secure it. Stick tape around the back of the frame to prevent dust, damp or insects creeping in and spoiling.
Tips:
1. Cut the moulding at a true right angle with a mitre block and tenon saw.
2. With the moulding secure in the mitre clamp, moulding pins are hammered in at an angle to hold the pieces together.
3. A frame clamp ensures a sturdy and secure frame.
4. A lightly stained frame is buffed to a lustrous finish with some furniture wax and a soft cloth.
5. Use a pencil and ruler to measure the mount board.
6. A hand-held mount cutter will give an accurate bevelled edge to the board, creating a professional finish.
7. Masking tape is useful to position the picture on the mount board. For long-term fixing, use brown paper tape.
8. To secure the backing to the frame, nail small panel pins into the sides.
9. For large amounts of mounting, a flat mount cutter may be a worthwhile investment. This device is quick and easy to operate, although it does cost more than the hand-held cutter.
Simple picture frames can be made to a similar square shape, yet they can be made looking quite different depending on the choice of moulding you will use.
Making a Frame
- begin by preparing the mitre block. You might find it easier to screw it on to your work surface to prevent it from moving about. Place a piece of 5 x 2.5 cm wood inside to lift up the floor of the block. Place one end of your wood or moulding in the mitre block, hold it firmly against the inside edge and cut it to an angle of 45 degrees with a tenon saw.
- Measure along the length from the outer edge of the corner you have just cut and mark with a pencil. Place the wood back in the block and cut it at the opposite 45 degree angle inwards from your mark. Repeat this on the other three pieces of moulding until you have four pieces the correct size.
- At this point, check your frame sits neatly together. If not, trim off a little all round.
- Place two edges into the mitre clamp, put a little wood adhesive into the join and clamp the pieces together. Using strong pliers take the head off a moulding pin and use this instead of a drill bit in a hand drill. Drill a hole at an angle joining the two pieces together. Hammer in another moulding pin. Repeat this on the other three corners.
- At this stage, you can check your corners are square and leave the frame to dry overnight. However, to be sure the frame is accurate and true, use a frame clamp. Place the frame inside the clamp and tighten the angles around it. Leave it in this position until it is dry.
- If there are any open joints, you can fill them quite neatly and quickly with fine sawdust and a little wood adhesive. When dry, the joints can be sanded smooth.
Staining
- There are a variety of stains available. For the best finish, use a cloth to apply the wood stain. You can build up the colour by applying further coats, leaving each one to dry before adding the next. When the frame is completely dry, apply a little wax to the surface. Let the wax soak into the wood before buffing it with a soft cloth. Another coat of wax will add even more lustre.
Mounting and Fixing
- Instead of simply framing your piece of art, mounting it with special board can enhance it tremendously if time is taken to do it well. Mount board is available in a wide selection of colours, but a simple cream or white mount will often be the answer. It is also possible to double mount. This is to place a darker colour down first then a larger, lighter colour on top to create an inner frame.
- The most important aspect of successful mounting is to use clean, sharp equipment. Any finger-marks, grease or rough edges will be quickly noticed. Give yourself plenty of space and time and ensure all your cutting tools have sharp blades.
- Select a mount to complement your picture and decide what area of the picture you would like to see. It is usual to mount a picture with an equal amount of border all around, perhaps giving the lower border a little more width.
- Turn the frame over and measure the inside edge to edge. Using the cutting mat, set square and knife, cut out a piece of board the same size as the inside of the frame.
- With the good side facing down, decide how large you want the window to be. Take the window measurement away from the frame measurement and divide the remainder in two. This is the distance from the side. Draw out the rectangle and raise the lower line by a few millimetres (fractions of an inch) if you wish.
- Here, a small mount cutter is used; this will cut the edges of the window at a 45 degree angle. Cut out the shape from the back; be cautious at the corners and if you are unsure, practise on some scrap board first.
- Measure the back of the frame and have a piece of glass cut to fit (you can do this yourself if you use a glass cutter and straight edge). You will also need to saw a piece of hardboard to the same size. Both pieces should fit easily into the back of the frame. Drill small holes into the back of the hardboard to accommodate the D rings. (You may prefer to screw the D rings into the back verticals of the frame itself.)
- Using brown paper gummed tape, stick the print down on the back of the mount, checking your image is straight. Place all the pieces into the frame and with a hammer, nail small panel pins into the sides of the frame to secure it. Stick tape around the back of the frame to prevent dust, damp or insects creeping in and spoiling.
Tips:
1. Cut the moulding at a true right angle with a mitre block and tenon saw.
2. With the moulding secure in the mitre clamp, moulding pins are hammered in at an angle to hold the pieces together.
3. A frame clamp ensures a sturdy and secure frame.
4. A lightly stained frame is buffed to a lustrous finish with some furniture wax and a soft cloth.
5. Use a pencil and ruler to measure the mount board.
6. A hand-held mount cutter will give an accurate bevelled edge to the board, creating a professional finish.
7. Masking tape is useful to position the picture on the mount board. For long-term fixing, use brown paper tape.
8. To secure the backing to the frame, nail small panel pins into the sides.
9. For large amounts of mounting, a flat mount cutter may be a worthwhile investment. This device is quick and easy to operate, although it does cost more than the hand-held cutter.
Simple picture frames can be made to a similar square shape, yet they can be made looking quite different depending on the choice of moulding you will use.
Wednesday, December 06, 2006
Getting Started With Remote Control Planes
By Simon Woodhouse
Hands up, everyone who's ever wanted to fly their own plane. Ok, now keep your hands up if you think you're ever likely to be able to afford your own plane. I'm seeing less hands. Never mind, because there is a much more affordable (and safer) way to learn to fly than actually having to get airborne.
Flying a remote control (RC) plane is exactly the same as flying a real one, except you're not in it. The principles of RC flight, and the systems that control the plane and keep it in the air, are no different to those that govern something the size of a 747. However, an RC plane is considerably cheaper to own and run, and takes up a lot less space.
If you're new to the world of RC planes, all the different types can at first seem a little daunting. But not to worry, because being a beginner actually means things are a lot simpler. For a start, if you're new to the whole idea of learning to fly, you're going to want to begin with a nice, basic sort of plane that won't cost a fortune. Another thing you won't want as a newbie is excessive speed. There's nothing worse than trying to control an RC plane when everything is happening far too quickly. For this reason, electric planes make the ideal choice for the novice.
In years gone by, owning an RC plane meant first of all you had to build it. Even if this was from a kit, it still took a bit of know how. Luckily, over recent years, ARF (Almost Ready to Fly) planes have come onto the market. These require virtually no self-assembly, and decent packages contain everything you need to get airborne. In the standard ARF kit you'll find the plane itself, the radio controller, the motor and the battery. The best type of ARF for the beginner is the park flyer. This is a generic term, and it refers to planes that have a relatively slow top speed, are lightweight, offer gentle turning capabilities and also tend to be self-righting (which means if you screw up they'll return themselves to level flight). The batteries are rechargeable, and if used with the right adapter can be plugged into the cigarette lighter in a car.
In the world of RC planes, size is important. Bigger might not be better, but if you're just starting out it does have its advantages. A small plane, with a wingspan of 36" or less, will require a bit more skill to handle. 40" - 48" wingspans are much better for the beginner. Not only do planes of this dimension turn a little more gently, they're also easier to see. And whilst we're on the subject of keeping an eye on the plane, vivid colors can help you with this. If the top of the wing is a bright color, and the underside a darker shade, it's easier to judge the planes orientation.
Ok, so you've got your plane and you're ready to go, what next? Though you might be itching to get out there and take to the skies, flying an RC plane, even a beginner's model, takes a bit of practice. If you can be shown what to do by someone who's had a lot of practice, then learning will be that much easier. Joining an RC plane club really is a must. Having someone show you the basics of controlling the plane will save a lot of time (not to mention embarrassing crashes). However, knowing some of the basics in advance won't hurt.
When it comes to learning to fly an RC plane, taking-off is the best place to start. Not all planes can perform a conventional take-off, i.e. rolling along the ground on their wheels, but most can be hand-launched. To do this, first of all make sure you've switched on the controller (which transmits the signal), and the receiver on the plane. Then turn on the planes motor and have it running at full power. Face into the wind, holding the plane at head height and by the fuselage. With the controller in your other hand, give the plane a firm push, with either the nose level with the ground or pointing slightly downward. Do not launch with the nose pointing upwards, as this is likely to cause the plane to stall. As soon as the plane is airborne, take hold of the controller with both hands and have your thumbs ready on the sticks. Try to make sure the controller aerial is pointing at forty-five degrees, as this angle offers maximum signal coverage.
Small, gentle movements of the controller sticks are important. Sudden movements often lead to over-compensating, which in turn leads to crashing (something you don't want). It goes without saying that you need to take care about where you fly your plane. Avoid people, trees, buildings, power lines etc. Also, you don't want the plane going too high, or out of range of the transmitter. An altitude of about forty feet is fine, and aim for a distance where by you can see exactly what the plane is doing.
After a gentle (and hopefully successful first flight), it's time to land. Always land into the wind wherever possible. Landings with the wind blowing from behind the plane don't work, and usually turn into crashes. Take plenty of time to line the plane up with where you want it to land. It doesn't matter how many times you have to circle back round and have another go, the important thing is to get the landing right.
Learning to fly an electric RC plane usually leads on to bigger and better things. Gas powered (nitro methane) planes, and even jets are available for the better-practiced flyer to have a go at. As with all hobbies, flying RC planes can devour serious amounts of cash, but the rewards are worth it. There's also a healthy market for well looked after secondhand equipment, so buying up isn't necessarily going to break the bank. So, with a bit of patience and some careful practice, the sky's the limit (pun definitely intended).
Hands up, everyone who's ever wanted to fly their own plane. Ok, now keep your hands up if you think you're ever likely to be able to afford your own plane. I'm seeing less hands. Never mind, because there is a much more affordable (and safer) way to learn to fly than actually having to get airborne.
Flying a remote control (RC) plane is exactly the same as flying a real one, except you're not in it. The principles of RC flight, and the systems that control the plane and keep it in the air, are no different to those that govern something the size of a 747. However, an RC plane is considerably cheaper to own and run, and takes up a lot less space.
If you're new to the world of RC planes, all the different types can at first seem a little daunting. But not to worry, because being a beginner actually means things are a lot simpler. For a start, if you're new to the whole idea of learning to fly, you're going to want to begin with a nice, basic sort of plane that won't cost a fortune. Another thing you won't want as a newbie is excessive speed. There's nothing worse than trying to control an RC plane when everything is happening far too quickly. For this reason, electric planes make the ideal choice for the novice.
In years gone by, owning an RC plane meant first of all you had to build it. Even if this was from a kit, it still took a bit of know how. Luckily, over recent years, ARF (Almost Ready to Fly) planes have come onto the market. These require virtually no self-assembly, and decent packages contain everything you need to get airborne. In the standard ARF kit you'll find the plane itself, the radio controller, the motor and the battery. The best type of ARF for the beginner is the park flyer. This is a generic term, and it refers to planes that have a relatively slow top speed, are lightweight, offer gentle turning capabilities and also tend to be self-righting (which means if you screw up they'll return themselves to level flight). The batteries are rechargeable, and if used with the right adapter can be plugged into the cigarette lighter in a car.
In the world of RC planes, size is important. Bigger might not be better, but if you're just starting out it does have its advantages. A small plane, with a wingspan of 36" or less, will require a bit more skill to handle. 40" - 48" wingspans are much better for the beginner. Not only do planes of this dimension turn a little more gently, they're also easier to see. And whilst we're on the subject of keeping an eye on the plane, vivid colors can help you with this. If the top of the wing is a bright color, and the underside a darker shade, it's easier to judge the planes orientation.
Ok, so you've got your plane and you're ready to go, what next? Though you might be itching to get out there and take to the skies, flying an RC plane, even a beginner's model, takes a bit of practice. If you can be shown what to do by someone who's had a lot of practice, then learning will be that much easier. Joining an RC plane club really is a must. Having someone show you the basics of controlling the plane will save a lot of time (not to mention embarrassing crashes). However, knowing some of the basics in advance won't hurt.
When it comes to learning to fly an RC plane, taking-off is the best place to start. Not all planes can perform a conventional take-off, i.e. rolling along the ground on their wheels, but most can be hand-launched. To do this, first of all make sure you've switched on the controller (which transmits the signal), and the receiver on the plane. Then turn on the planes motor and have it running at full power. Face into the wind, holding the plane at head height and by the fuselage. With the controller in your other hand, give the plane a firm push, with either the nose level with the ground or pointing slightly downward. Do not launch with the nose pointing upwards, as this is likely to cause the plane to stall. As soon as the plane is airborne, take hold of the controller with both hands and have your thumbs ready on the sticks. Try to make sure the controller aerial is pointing at forty-five degrees, as this angle offers maximum signal coverage.
Small, gentle movements of the controller sticks are important. Sudden movements often lead to over-compensating, which in turn leads to crashing (something you don't want). It goes without saying that you need to take care about where you fly your plane. Avoid people, trees, buildings, power lines etc. Also, you don't want the plane going too high, or out of range of the transmitter. An altitude of about forty feet is fine, and aim for a distance where by you can see exactly what the plane is doing.
After a gentle (and hopefully successful first flight), it's time to land. Always land into the wind wherever possible. Landings with the wind blowing from behind the plane don't work, and usually turn into crashes. Take plenty of time to line the plane up with where you want it to land. It doesn't matter how many times you have to circle back round and have another go, the important thing is to get the landing right.
Learning to fly an electric RC plane usually leads on to bigger and better things. Gas powered (nitro methane) planes, and even jets are available for the better-practiced flyer to have a go at. As with all hobbies, flying RC planes can devour serious amounts of cash, but the rewards are worth it. There's also a healthy market for well looked after secondhand equipment, so buying up isn't necessarily going to break the bank. So, with a bit of patience and some careful practice, the sky's the limit (pun definitely intended).
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)