As Thanksgiving and Christmas approach this year, we have an immense opportunity to use items that are characteristically natural, and that are often available from the garden in any area of America, for holiday crafting. You can use a variety of greenery, flowers, wild grasses, pinecones, nuts, and many other living materials either alone or in combination with purchased materials to make attractive wreaths and wall hangings in any season of the year. Some of these items will serve your home just as well in other seasons besides autumn, and far beyond the New Year celebrations of 2006.
Wreaths have been used to decorate the home and the human body itself much farther back in history than we can recall. We know that diadems, as they were called in the ancient cultures of Persia, came originally from Greece and the Greek word diadema, meaning a thing that is bound around. This symbolized royalty and was worn around the head of a royal bonnet or hat, but diadems were actually bands or wide strips of fabric at the time. The Greeks used leaves to make head garlands that were awarded as prizes during the ancient Greek Olympic Games. Julius Caesar wore a wreath himself. As time passed, other countries created a variety of headdresses and crowns. In the fifteenth century AD, the working class populations began wearing wreaths to honor religious holidays and to commemorate different occasions. This is where Thanksgiving, autumn and Christmas wreaths were popularized for the home. The tradition has spread to many cultures, for many occasions, all year long.
The holiday wreath is a tradition in many parts of the US and the world, but a Southwestern wreath can be used for autumn holidays and modified for other seasons of the year with add-ons and interchangeable decorations. Your basic wreath can be woven from prairie grasses that grow well in the Southwest, and these can last quite a long time. Long sections of one or more of these grasses can be twisted together in a spiral and then joined at the ends to form a circle or oval shape, held together with floral wire or picture hanging type wire.
Ribbon or raffia can be tied around the body of the wreath's circular arm at intervals, with some wire first applied around under it, if the arm is very large. From season to season, these ribbons, raffia, or a combination of both can be changed to different colors and textures. Ribbons might be wrapped the whole length the arm diagonally, as an alternative. Strips of dark or tan leather make attractive wrappings as well. Seasonal plants and flowers can be inserted at intervals around the wreath, using their stems and floral picks.
On top of that, you can add seasonal ornaments for Thanksgiving, then changing for Christmas or Hanukkah. To finish the piece, add a large bow of your favorite color(s) at either the top or the bottom of the wreath. For New Year's Eve, add some ornamental top hats and champagne classes from your local party store, along with a couple of full sized noisemakers.
To add to your decor enjoyment, try a Southwestern Christmas Tree. You could use a more traditional evergreen or fir and decorate it with Southwestern-design ornaments, but you might also consider trying a cactus as either a large or a smaller centerpiece Christmas Tree. If you have children at home, be sure to remove the lower thorns if you use a large cactus in a pot on the floor. You can stand pots of native grasses or other plants around the base of either a cactus or a fir tree, with bright bows tied around each pot, in place of the traditional cotton snow blankets. Smaller cacti could be decorated and kept on shelves and mantels.
For Southwestern ornaments on any kind of tree, look for native American Indian flutes, full sized, small but still authentic, or toy and Christmas-ornament versions. Add figures of the wolf, the bear, the bald eagle, the Thunderbird, kokopelli, mystic baskets, small adobe houses, horses, and similar images. String several lengths of tiny white lights first to resemble stars in the wide-open sky. Top it all off with shiny ball or fruit-shaped ornaments. Then for the tree topper, use the traditional star, a native headdress, or an American eagle. If you use a cactus in a sunny window area, you can decorate it for each coming holiday and move it outdoors as needed. For your wreath and Christmas Tree needs, visit your local nursery, party store, and department or specialty stores; and do not forget your own backyard for greenery!
Another good resource for ornaments and accessories around the year and around the world is Bronner's Christmas Wonderland in Frankenmuth, Michigan. Their web catalogue order system can be found at http://www.bronners.com. Many of the ornaments shown are accompanied by the history of associated holidays and legends.
The store in itself covers several acres, and inside there are hundreds of areas arranged by color, style, legend, tradition, country, faith, and holiday. The parking lots combine in lights and decorations to offer a Holiday Light Show 365 days a year, at no cost. You can view all of this online at their website. There is a lot of information and good reading offered there. Happy holidays!
Tuesday, October 31, 2006
Getting Started With Snowboarding
By Simon Woodhouse
As an alpine pastime, snowboarding has been around for about forty years. Though similar to skiing, its origins are in fact more closely link with surfing and skateboarding. The very first snowboard was called a Snurfer (the word being a hybrid of snow and surfer), and it appeared in America in 1965. Since then the basic concept has stayed the same, albeit subject to constant refinement and variation.
Snowboarding looks quite simple, and essentially it is. But there are a few things you need to know that'll help you get started, or perhaps decide if it's the right pastime for you. First of all there's the board itself. Basically this is a vaguely hourglass-shaped, flat piece of lamented material anything up to nearly six feet long. As a rough guide to choosing the right board length for a beginner, it's best if when standing on its end, your board comes somewhere between your collarbone and your chin. The anatomy of the board is quite simple. The front end is the nose, the back the tail and the two sides are heel and toe. The only slight complication here is the heel and toe sides. Which is which depends on whether you're regular or goofy - I'll explain. When you're stood on your board and facing downhill you'll have one foot in front of the other, and your front foot is your leading foot. If this is your left foot then you're regular, if it's your right foot you're goofy.
The next piece of important equipment is your boots. The snowboard is controlled by the movement of your feet, so properly fitting boots are vital. If your foot moves around inside the boot you won't have so much control over the board. Dense foam padding inside the boot helps create a snug fit, whilst at the same time not pinching or rubbing your foot. The other essential piece of equipment goes on the opposite end of your body - a helmet. No matter how cool it might look to go zooming down the slopes with the wind in your hair, it won't feel quite so cool if you hit your head on something (a tree, a rock, another skier) and you're not wearing a helmet.
Now because snowboarding takes place on snow (duh!), it'll be cold, so you're going to need some warm clothing. However you don't want anything too restrictive. Your jacket and pants need to be comfortable enough to allow you to bend and twist, as well as get up easily after you've fallen over. Gloves, scarf and goggles are three accessories that'll make your time on the slopes that much more comfortable.
Ok, so you've got your board and your clothing, now it's time to hit the slopes. When I say hit the slopes, that's exactly what you'll be doing. Learning to snowboard involves a lot of falling over. If you accept it's inevitable, and take it with good grace, you'll get through the first few hours a lot more easily. Learning to fall over is also important. This may sound a little daft, but if you don't know how to fall properly you'll make matters a lot worse. Here are a couple of simple do's and don'ts. First of all let's talk about falling forward. The natural reaction here it to put your arms out in front of you to cushion the impact - not a good idea. If you do this, you risk damaging your wrists, something that's pretty painful. So, when you feel yourself falling forward, instead of putting your arms out, fold them across your chest and try to land on your forearms. This'll spread the impact and protect your joints. If you feel yourself falling backward, tuck your chin into your chest, this'll help protect your head. Also, try to twist one way or the other and then you won't land on your tailbone, which can really hurt.
Now you've got the basics of falling, it's time to think about staying upright. As you move downhill you'll be going across the slope, so to stop yourself from toppling over you need to keep pressure on the uphill edge of the board (that's the side that's facing toward the top of the slope). You do this by putting pressure on either your toes or heels, depending on whether you're going left to right, or right to left across the slope. As you're moving, try to keep your weight evenly distributed between your two feet. It's important the leading edge of the board (the end that's pointing downhill) stays in contact with the snow, as this is the means by which you steer. Though getting the hang of moving is the fun part, learning to stop is essential. To slow down and stop you need to push the uphill side of the board further into the snow, by putting more pressure on either your toes or heels. The more pressure you apply, the faster you'll stop.
Though I've gone over the basics here, snowboarding isn't something you can learn on paper. It's a 'hands on' hobby that requires a lot of practice, plenty of patience and a whole heap of perseverance. But like most things that appear difficult at first, as soon as you feel yourself making even a slight improvement, all the falling over will seem worth it.
As an alpine pastime, snowboarding has been around for about forty years. Though similar to skiing, its origins are in fact more closely link with surfing and skateboarding. The very first snowboard was called a Snurfer (the word being a hybrid of snow and surfer), and it appeared in America in 1965. Since then the basic concept has stayed the same, albeit subject to constant refinement and variation.
Snowboarding looks quite simple, and essentially it is. But there are a few things you need to know that'll help you get started, or perhaps decide if it's the right pastime for you. First of all there's the board itself. Basically this is a vaguely hourglass-shaped, flat piece of lamented material anything up to nearly six feet long. As a rough guide to choosing the right board length for a beginner, it's best if when standing on its end, your board comes somewhere between your collarbone and your chin. The anatomy of the board is quite simple. The front end is the nose, the back the tail and the two sides are heel and toe. The only slight complication here is the heel and toe sides. Which is which depends on whether you're regular or goofy - I'll explain. When you're stood on your board and facing downhill you'll have one foot in front of the other, and your front foot is your leading foot. If this is your left foot then you're regular, if it's your right foot you're goofy.
The next piece of important equipment is your boots. The snowboard is controlled by the movement of your feet, so properly fitting boots are vital. If your foot moves around inside the boot you won't have so much control over the board. Dense foam padding inside the boot helps create a snug fit, whilst at the same time not pinching or rubbing your foot. The other essential piece of equipment goes on the opposite end of your body - a helmet. No matter how cool it might look to go zooming down the slopes with the wind in your hair, it won't feel quite so cool if you hit your head on something (a tree, a rock, another skier) and you're not wearing a helmet.
Now because snowboarding takes place on snow (duh!), it'll be cold, so you're going to need some warm clothing. However you don't want anything too restrictive. Your jacket and pants need to be comfortable enough to allow you to bend and twist, as well as get up easily after you've fallen over. Gloves, scarf and goggles are three accessories that'll make your time on the slopes that much more comfortable.
Ok, so you've got your board and your clothing, now it's time to hit the slopes. When I say hit the slopes, that's exactly what you'll be doing. Learning to snowboard involves a lot of falling over. If you accept it's inevitable, and take it with good grace, you'll get through the first few hours a lot more easily. Learning to fall over is also important. This may sound a little daft, but if you don't know how to fall properly you'll make matters a lot worse. Here are a couple of simple do's and don'ts. First of all let's talk about falling forward. The natural reaction here it to put your arms out in front of you to cushion the impact - not a good idea. If you do this, you risk damaging your wrists, something that's pretty painful. So, when you feel yourself falling forward, instead of putting your arms out, fold them across your chest and try to land on your forearms. This'll spread the impact and protect your joints. If you feel yourself falling backward, tuck your chin into your chest, this'll help protect your head. Also, try to twist one way or the other and then you won't land on your tailbone, which can really hurt.
Now you've got the basics of falling, it's time to think about staying upright. As you move downhill you'll be going across the slope, so to stop yourself from toppling over you need to keep pressure on the uphill edge of the board (that's the side that's facing toward the top of the slope). You do this by putting pressure on either your toes or heels, depending on whether you're going left to right, or right to left across the slope. As you're moving, try to keep your weight evenly distributed between your two feet. It's important the leading edge of the board (the end that's pointing downhill) stays in contact with the snow, as this is the means by which you steer. Though getting the hang of moving is the fun part, learning to stop is essential. To slow down and stop you need to push the uphill side of the board further into the snow, by putting more pressure on either your toes or heels. The more pressure you apply, the faster you'll stop.
Though I've gone over the basics here, snowboarding isn't something you can learn on paper. It's a 'hands on' hobby that requires a lot of practice, plenty of patience and a whole heap of perseverance. But like most things that appear difficult at first, as soon as you feel yourself making even a slight improvement, all the falling over will seem worth it.
Interior House Painting
Can painting be considered a hobby? I do not mean the type of painting where one creates beautiful pictures on a leaning easel, palette in hand, while donning a bright red beret. I mean the type of painting where one paints the walls and trim of a home. When we bought our first home eight years ago, we were so thrilled to be finally owning our own home, that we did not think much about the look of the rooms, other than the fact that they were clean, bright, the right size, and not ugly. Although another family with two children had lived in the home for about fourteen years after it was built, the walls and trim were exactly the same color that they had been when the house was built. We acquired the house with all white walls and dark brown trim, doors, and window frames. At first, this did not bother me in the least. I was more concerned with getting settled into the house, putting all our things away and gearing up for the upcoming winter. Yet as winter set in, I realized that the long dark days required a bit more color and brightness in our home than we were currently getting.
The next spring, I decided to paint our downstairs bathroom. I was a bit nervous about painting walls in our own home. What if I messed it up? What if we all hated the color? I figured a bathroom was a safe place to begin. Plus, I was determined to get rid of the dark brown trim, doors, and cabinetry in that bathroom. I started with the trim. I did extensive research on how the wood should be prepped and treated before painting, and I found that a special bonding primer was all it really needed. With three small children in the house, as well as homeschooling responsibilities, it took a few weeks for me to finish the job of the trim, doors, and cabinets; but the change was drastic and shocking. Although the walls were still a drab white, the formerly dark trim was not a bright, creamy white and the entire bathroom was significantly brighter. I decided to live on the edge and chose a denim blue paint with a tinge of purple for the walls of the bathroom. I knew that if I could pull this off, the rest of the house would follow suit with bright colors and beautiful white trim. It turned out to be absolutely lovely. It was a bold color and I was slightly afraid, but we got many compliments on it, and still do, years later.
After that, the painting became a hobby, and somewhat of a joke, in our home. Each successive year after that initial bathroom experiment has found me covering the old, dark trim with white paint, and painting the walls in one of the rooms a pretty, brighter color. I do not always go with bold colors as I did with the purple-blue in that bathroom. For instance, I painted our living room a creamy, peachy beige color, and it follows right into the kitchen, where a chair railing separates it from a light brown underneath. Thankfully, by some stroke of luck, our kitchen cabinets were already painted white. My next project was my youngest daughter's bedroom, which is on a north side. We changed it from dark and drab to a pretty, bright yellow. My other daughter has the north room downstairs, and while she insisted on painting her room dark blue (much to my chagrin), the white trim, doors, closet, and windows, as well as the white furniture, made it incredibly beautiful. Oddly, it actually seems brighter now. This past spring, I painted the upstairs bathroom a light, stucco brown, and I attacked the master bedroom, again with white trim and sea foam green walls. It is amazing the difference a coat of fresh paint can make in a room.
I am not finished with the house, yet. I still have to paint my son's room, the stairwell, and the trim in the kitchen. At some point, I will paint the walls in the basement stairwell, and I might even paint the basement stairs. I suppose when I finish everything, I will simply start over and begin changing the colors. That must be the best part of painting one's own house as a hobby!
The next spring, I decided to paint our downstairs bathroom. I was a bit nervous about painting walls in our own home. What if I messed it up? What if we all hated the color? I figured a bathroom was a safe place to begin. Plus, I was determined to get rid of the dark brown trim, doors, and cabinetry in that bathroom. I started with the trim. I did extensive research on how the wood should be prepped and treated before painting, and I found that a special bonding primer was all it really needed. With three small children in the house, as well as homeschooling responsibilities, it took a few weeks for me to finish the job of the trim, doors, and cabinets; but the change was drastic and shocking. Although the walls were still a drab white, the formerly dark trim was not a bright, creamy white and the entire bathroom was significantly brighter. I decided to live on the edge and chose a denim blue paint with a tinge of purple for the walls of the bathroom. I knew that if I could pull this off, the rest of the house would follow suit with bright colors and beautiful white trim. It turned out to be absolutely lovely. It was a bold color and I was slightly afraid, but we got many compliments on it, and still do, years later.
After that, the painting became a hobby, and somewhat of a joke, in our home. Each successive year after that initial bathroom experiment has found me covering the old, dark trim with white paint, and painting the walls in one of the rooms a pretty, brighter color. I do not always go with bold colors as I did with the purple-blue in that bathroom. For instance, I painted our living room a creamy, peachy beige color, and it follows right into the kitchen, where a chair railing separates it from a light brown underneath. Thankfully, by some stroke of luck, our kitchen cabinets were already painted white. My next project was my youngest daughter's bedroom, which is on a north side. We changed it from dark and drab to a pretty, bright yellow. My other daughter has the north room downstairs, and while she insisted on painting her room dark blue (much to my chagrin), the white trim, doors, closet, and windows, as well as the white furniture, made it incredibly beautiful. Oddly, it actually seems brighter now. This past spring, I painted the upstairs bathroom a light, stucco brown, and I attacked the master bedroom, again with white trim and sea foam green walls. It is amazing the difference a coat of fresh paint can make in a room.
I am not finished with the house, yet. I still have to paint my son's room, the stairwell, and the trim in the kitchen. At some point, I will paint the walls in the basement stairwell, and I might even paint the basement stairs. I suppose when I finish everything, I will simply start over and begin changing the colors. That must be the best part of painting one's own house as a hobby!
Monday, October 30, 2006
Productive hobbies
What is the best thing to make the most of your time? Then of course, doing the things you really like. Sometimes we lost the idea of what we really like and instead of waiting for the day or just waiting for anyone to invite use. Then it should be the time to indulge to things making us productive.
In creating a dull day to something spontaneous and useful, we must consider four things; time, space, resources and the sense of self. What we needed to do and how should we do it.
Most of the time, we indulge into writing or reading as a kind of hobby to ease our day. We sometimes make it a routine. However, the question now, is it something you really need? Is it something necessary or perhaps do you feel satisfied doing? Sometimes we have some extra curricular activities that add up to our loads of responsibilities. In the end, we do not find it fulfilling instead make us tired.
Hobby creates a routine in us just like a clock it always points to what the time is. This should not be a case or else we are not far from becoming a clock or a machine or mechanism. Hobby must be done out of what we want and needed to do that can makes us happy in the end. Here are some guides to make the most of your time.
We have defined hobby as recreation for self-satisfaction and making one useful. Then we must also find other hobbies that are not conventional. Most hobbies were reading, writing, stitching, painting and other related things. Nevertheless, some other hobbies can be productive also.
Instead of rushing into the mall of buying groceries, sometimes we do not take time to make it pleasurable. It is by going to grocery not as an impulse buyer but someone who thinks is best for the budget. This kind of hobby in grocery buying is different from we often feel when we are inside the mall. We sometimes forgot to take the list we necessarily need. Having grocery buying as a hobby creates a feeling to plan, budget and take time in choosing for the right quality of the product. It even makes window-shopping pleasurable because we eliminate the feeling of impulse buying.
Here are some tips as to how grocery buying can be a hobby. Check the items that should be in the list and do your grocery early in the morning. In this way, you avoid traffic both on vehicle and on people. It is also convenient since you can choose the best items; check their freshness and the price. What is advantageous of grocery buying as a hobby makes you a smart buyer. Smart buyers always know when most stores on sale, giving out discounts, know what season where prices are high or low and even when the stocks are around. It is for the reason that they take the time to talk to the sales clerks. These people can give you information that you needed since they know when the stocks or items purchased, delivered, displayed and even discounted. For example, when is the right time to buy school supplies, Christmas decor, holiday sales, fresh vegetables and meats and even when the bread is, hot.
Another hobby that you can make most is handling your money. To handle your money is not just about budgeting but it also includes how to transact your money in different financial institution. To handle is to manage properly and making it as a hobby can either increase or decrease your financial status. What is advantageous of handling your money as a hobby is that it will make you conscious as to where your money comes and goes. You will realize on how to organize your bank accounts, withdrawal slips, encode your earnings and monitor your finances. It can include as to the proper ways of transacting business in your own bank. It can then affect as to how you transact your ATM card, Credit cards and passbooks. You will become you own financial manager or your own bookkeeper. You will then realize when is the right time to transact business from ATMs, Banks and even purchases done on the internet. Handling money as a hobby is satisfying since it will excite you in the business world and even indulge yourself into investing.
The third hobby you can have is getting fit. Remember the time you realize that you are getting bigger and bigger yet you always forget of exercising. This is because we do not take exercising as a hobby. It must be made pleasurable in order for you to continually doing it even if you do not consider it as an exercise. Exercise is not merely losing weight it is a healthy lifestyle. Exercise as a hobby creates a conscious effort to eat the healthy meal at the right time, taking a walk instead of an elevator and keeping you from smoking and drinking. In this way, your simple hobby of getting fit does not only make a healthy lifestyle but fulfilling as well.
One expensive hobby one can make is traveling. However, one can still travel like his own dream out of town tour. Remember the time you once traveled and somehow you worried about expenses and sometimes some bagged worries you have left behind. This kind of worries will not make you traveling as pleasurable as possible. Therefore, if you are thinking of traveling as a hobby be smart in purchasing whether airline tickets, land transport, or having your own car with you. Try to check airline tickets during off-peak season and months wherein most establishments offer affordable rates. In this way, you can travel with lots of discounts.
Some hobbies really are expensive like a collection of cars, or a car for show-off. Then the deal is to lessen the amount you are paying or have a discount just by looking into small details of having it in the minimum amount. If you want a brand new car in its latest model, talk to the dealer and have it reserve for you. Mostly the first 100 units do have imported parts. If not, buy a car that is in the end of the year, most dealers negotiate that are advantageous to you. This is for the reason that they need to release all the old stocks. Good referrals from friends do make good deals. If you are thinking of selling your car, try to have it sold after the manufacturer's warranty has expired and the model is still on high price.
Lastly, the hobby of rejuvenation is different from being vain. It is important to keep our skin healthy, looking healthy and presentable to everyone even to ourselves. If we continually have this kind of hobby, we avoid going to dermatologist for mass reconstruction or modification of our skin. We will try to learn even home remedies and be conscious to how our face looks.
As they say, hobby can also depend in timing. If you think your hobby is best for this season, then go for it. As long as it makes you enjoy doing it and it is productive.
In creating a dull day to something spontaneous and useful, we must consider four things; time, space, resources and the sense of self. What we needed to do and how should we do it.
Most of the time, we indulge into writing or reading as a kind of hobby to ease our day. We sometimes make it a routine. However, the question now, is it something you really need? Is it something necessary or perhaps do you feel satisfied doing? Sometimes we have some extra curricular activities that add up to our loads of responsibilities. In the end, we do not find it fulfilling instead make us tired.
Hobby creates a routine in us just like a clock it always points to what the time is. This should not be a case or else we are not far from becoming a clock or a machine or mechanism. Hobby must be done out of what we want and needed to do that can makes us happy in the end. Here are some guides to make the most of your time.
We have defined hobby as recreation for self-satisfaction and making one useful. Then we must also find other hobbies that are not conventional. Most hobbies were reading, writing, stitching, painting and other related things. Nevertheless, some other hobbies can be productive also.
Instead of rushing into the mall of buying groceries, sometimes we do not take time to make it pleasurable. It is by going to grocery not as an impulse buyer but someone who thinks is best for the budget. This kind of hobby in grocery buying is different from we often feel when we are inside the mall. We sometimes forgot to take the list we necessarily need. Having grocery buying as a hobby creates a feeling to plan, budget and take time in choosing for the right quality of the product. It even makes window-shopping pleasurable because we eliminate the feeling of impulse buying.
Here are some tips as to how grocery buying can be a hobby. Check the items that should be in the list and do your grocery early in the morning. In this way, you avoid traffic both on vehicle and on people. It is also convenient since you can choose the best items; check their freshness and the price. What is advantageous of grocery buying as a hobby makes you a smart buyer. Smart buyers always know when most stores on sale, giving out discounts, know what season where prices are high or low and even when the stocks are around. It is for the reason that they take the time to talk to the sales clerks. These people can give you information that you needed since they know when the stocks or items purchased, delivered, displayed and even discounted. For example, when is the right time to buy school supplies, Christmas decor, holiday sales, fresh vegetables and meats and even when the bread is, hot.
Another hobby that you can make most is handling your money. To handle your money is not just about budgeting but it also includes how to transact your money in different financial institution. To handle is to manage properly and making it as a hobby can either increase or decrease your financial status. What is advantageous of handling your money as a hobby is that it will make you conscious as to where your money comes and goes. You will realize on how to organize your bank accounts, withdrawal slips, encode your earnings and monitor your finances. It can include as to the proper ways of transacting business in your own bank. It can then affect as to how you transact your ATM card, Credit cards and passbooks. You will become you own financial manager or your own bookkeeper. You will then realize when is the right time to transact business from ATMs, Banks and even purchases done on the internet. Handling money as a hobby is satisfying since it will excite you in the business world and even indulge yourself into investing.
The third hobby you can have is getting fit. Remember the time you realize that you are getting bigger and bigger yet you always forget of exercising. This is because we do not take exercising as a hobby. It must be made pleasurable in order for you to continually doing it even if you do not consider it as an exercise. Exercise is not merely losing weight it is a healthy lifestyle. Exercise as a hobby creates a conscious effort to eat the healthy meal at the right time, taking a walk instead of an elevator and keeping you from smoking and drinking. In this way, your simple hobby of getting fit does not only make a healthy lifestyle but fulfilling as well.
One expensive hobby one can make is traveling. However, one can still travel like his own dream out of town tour. Remember the time you once traveled and somehow you worried about expenses and sometimes some bagged worries you have left behind. This kind of worries will not make you traveling as pleasurable as possible. Therefore, if you are thinking of traveling as a hobby be smart in purchasing whether airline tickets, land transport, or having your own car with you. Try to check airline tickets during off-peak season and months wherein most establishments offer affordable rates. In this way, you can travel with lots of discounts.
Some hobbies really are expensive like a collection of cars, or a car for show-off. Then the deal is to lessen the amount you are paying or have a discount just by looking into small details of having it in the minimum amount. If you want a brand new car in its latest model, talk to the dealer and have it reserve for you. Mostly the first 100 units do have imported parts. If not, buy a car that is in the end of the year, most dealers negotiate that are advantageous to you. This is for the reason that they need to release all the old stocks. Good referrals from friends do make good deals. If you are thinking of selling your car, try to have it sold after the manufacturer's warranty has expired and the model is still on high price.
Lastly, the hobby of rejuvenation is different from being vain. It is important to keep our skin healthy, looking healthy and presentable to everyone even to ourselves. If we continually have this kind of hobby, we avoid going to dermatologist for mass reconstruction or modification of our skin. We will try to learn even home remedies and be conscious to how our face looks.
As they say, hobby can also depend in timing. If you think your hobby is best for this season, then go for it. As long as it makes you enjoy doing it and it is productive.
The Joy Of Collecting Marbles
Marbles are played with around the world and it would seem that there are thousands of marbles to choose from these days, but it would also seem that this was not always the case. Marbles, in some shape or form, have been around almost as long as people have. Small balls of clay that were supposedly marbles have been found in the tombs of the great Egyptian rulers. Other small clay marble like balls have been found with relics left behind by the Aztecs. Whether these marbles were used as toys, no one really knows. In Roman times, marbles were played with as well, but smoothed over nuts replaced the small clay balls.
By the time of the middle ages, games were played all over Europe with clay balls. By the time that the eleventh century rolled around, glass blowers in Venice, Italy were already making small balls out of glass. In fact, Shakespeare mentions a game called Cherry Pits, which was no doubt played with some sort of marbles (or perhaps they were actually cherry pits?)
In 1815, the earliest known book was published in England about marbles and the book included several games that are still played around the world today. Marbles at that time were made out of glass, china or clay. But the more popular ones were made out of real stone, such as aggies (made out of agate) and these soon became the popular favourite both in Europe and in the US.
As people immigrated from Europe and England, they brought their marbles with them. Around 1890, the first machine made marble appeared on the scene. They were made in Germany and later made in the United States.
The first national marbles tournament was held in 1922 in Philadelphia and sponsored by Macys Department Store and has been held every year since, excluding two years during World War 2. Marbles again became popular during the 1950s and not to be outdone by the Japanese, the United States began cooking their marbles so they would crack inside without falling apart. Perhaps the crowning moment for the lowly marble was when a few were taken on one of Apollo trips by Neil Armstrong. So marbles have truly been all over the world and beyond.
Collecting marbles is a great hobby. My daughter collects them and we have been known to pick them up at antique markets for her. But there are few terms that you might want to know if this is something you are interested in doing.
You should do your home work before you start collecting marbles. There are many books that you can read about marbles and collecting them and you can get these at the library or at a book store. Educating yourself is the best hedge against people that are going to try to sell you phonies. You should then seek out other marble collectors, join a club, make contact with other sellers that you can get advice from on where to purchase marbles and what to look for in a marble and help you the manoeuvre around the different types of marbles. You can look for marbles at antique markets and flea markets. Sometimes, you will be lucky because most antique dealers do not know much about marbles.
Once you have a nice collection, you will want some ideas on how to store them. One thing you should remember is to never store your marbles in a vertical jar as they can rub against each other, scratch and possibly cause some pitting in the glass. Antique flower frogs are great for displaying marbles as they have holes in a glass base (these can be purchased for $5-$10 at antique markets). You could also make a wood box with individual departments, small zip loc bags, well there are quite a few creative ideas on how to display your marble collection.
Taking care of your marbles is not a hard task to do. You need to clean your marbles and while you could attack each marble with a toothbrush and water, but why not dunk a few at a time in a bowl with some toilet bowl cleaner, it will have the same effect. Make sure that you do not use anything abrasive that will harm the surface of your marble. Should you have any pitting in your marble, you can take it to a professional restorer.
Marble collecting can be a fun and rewarding hobby and definitely can be more than meets the eye.
By the time of the middle ages, games were played all over Europe with clay balls. By the time that the eleventh century rolled around, glass blowers in Venice, Italy were already making small balls out of glass. In fact, Shakespeare mentions a game called Cherry Pits, which was no doubt played with some sort of marbles (or perhaps they were actually cherry pits?)
In 1815, the earliest known book was published in England about marbles and the book included several games that are still played around the world today. Marbles at that time were made out of glass, china or clay. But the more popular ones were made out of real stone, such as aggies (made out of agate) and these soon became the popular favourite both in Europe and in the US.
As people immigrated from Europe and England, they brought their marbles with them. Around 1890, the first machine made marble appeared on the scene. They were made in Germany and later made in the United States.
The first national marbles tournament was held in 1922 in Philadelphia and sponsored by Macys Department Store and has been held every year since, excluding two years during World War 2. Marbles again became popular during the 1950s and not to be outdone by the Japanese, the United States began cooking their marbles so they would crack inside without falling apart. Perhaps the crowning moment for the lowly marble was when a few were taken on one of Apollo trips by Neil Armstrong. So marbles have truly been all over the world and beyond.
Collecting marbles is a great hobby. My daughter collects them and we have been known to pick them up at antique markets for her. But there are few terms that you might want to know if this is something you are interested in doing.
You should do your home work before you start collecting marbles. There are many books that you can read about marbles and collecting them and you can get these at the library or at a book store. Educating yourself is the best hedge against people that are going to try to sell you phonies. You should then seek out other marble collectors, join a club, make contact with other sellers that you can get advice from on where to purchase marbles and what to look for in a marble and help you the manoeuvre around the different types of marbles. You can look for marbles at antique markets and flea markets. Sometimes, you will be lucky because most antique dealers do not know much about marbles.
Once you have a nice collection, you will want some ideas on how to store them. One thing you should remember is to never store your marbles in a vertical jar as they can rub against each other, scratch and possibly cause some pitting in the glass. Antique flower frogs are great for displaying marbles as they have holes in a glass base (these can be purchased for $5-$10 at antique markets). You could also make a wood box with individual departments, small zip loc bags, well there are quite a few creative ideas on how to display your marble collection.
Taking care of your marbles is not a hard task to do. You need to clean your marbles and while you could attack each marble with a toothbrush and water, but why not dunk a few at a time in a bowl with some toilet bowl cleaner, it will have the same effect. Make sure that you do not use anything abrasive that will harm the surface of your marble. Should you have any pitting in your marble, you can take it to a professional restorer.
Marble collecting can be a fun and rewarding hobby and definitely can be more than meets the eye.
Sunday, October 29, 2006
Rag work (By 4Ernesto)
Some years ago I thought that rag work was something I will never try. I thought that it would be very difficult. One day I visited a friend. In her house I saw exquisite pieces of rags. I asked their origin and the answer was not what I expected. She made them herself!!! I was so surprised because I could never imagine that a hobby could produce so fine results. When she saw how surprised I was, she offered to show me the basic techniques. Believe me I was willing to learn much more than that and I did. Now I am in the position to tell you what she taught me back then. Try rag work, it is more than a hobby...
Here I will start with the materials. Do not think of something expensive, the materials are recycled and therefore very inexpensive. Even the most unlikely fabrics, such as crimpling or unfashionable prints, are transformed when cut into strips and mixed with other colors and textures. Modern rag makers even use discarded plastic carrier bags, crisps and sweets packets. The other inexpensive material widely used in rag work is Hessian.
You can find below all the details that you will need concerning materials to use for rag work.
Cotton Fabrics
In particular old printed shirts and dresses or remnants, are ideal for rag work and particularly suitable for plaiting, crochet and knitting.
Jersey Fabrics
Cotton T-shirts are lovely to work with, fray very little and are good for cut or loop pile surfaces.
Fabric strips
A wide variety of fabric can be recycled, including old clothing, curtains and bedclothes. Cut off any fastenings and seams.
Plastic strips
These are a modern option to use with or instead of fabric. Plastic carrier bags slip easily through the Hessian and create unusual textures.
Foil strips
Add sparkle with foil-backed crisps packets and gift wrap.
Black felt
It is used as a smart backing cloth to finish jewellery, mirror frames and tablemats. Cut offcuts into strips and use in another project.
Calico
This is cheap, lightweight cotton very suitable for internal covers for cushion pads. It can be used as a backing cloth.
Hessian
Originally old sacking cloth was used to hook or prod through. Hessian, made from jute, has a pliable, woven construction and the warp and weft threads open and close easily. It is available in different weights. 250gr is perfect for rag work.
Tapestry canvas
It has a more rigid construction and can therefore be worked without a frame. For a rug, choose a weave of three holes to 2.5cm
Carpet webbing tape
This one is a heavy-duty woven calico tape, used to cover the edges of rugs. It comes in various widths.
Carpet binding tape
This is also used to bind edges and seams on the back of rugs.
Thin wire
It is useful in sculpted pieces. It is often used in the wrapping technique.
Latex carpet adhesive
It is used in backing finished pieces of rag work. Use in a well-ventilated area and avoid contact with clothing.
Clear-drying impact adhesive
It can be used in small amounts to stick backing cloth such as felt to smaller pieces of work.
Superglue
It is a very strong, quick-drying adhesive that is used to secure jewellery findings, such as ring fittings etc.
Brooch clip fastenings
These are available in metal in several designs. The two pictured are suitable for rag work jewellery. The brooch bar-style fastening is sewn to the back of work, while the round-shaped fastening is best stuck on.
Hair clip fastenings
They are available in several sizes. Measure the finished hairslide shape to determine the length of the bar needed.
Ring fittings
Made in metal, these are available in silver and gold finishes. Adjustable styles are best.
Drinks can ring pulls
They make ideal hangers for picture and mirror frames.
Elastic hair bands
These are available in a variety of colors so you can coordinate hair accessories.
Black sewing thread
It is used to tack down edges and to slip stitch black felt backing cloth into position.
Invisible thread
It is very strong. It is used to hem finish any color.
Colored sewing threads
For hard-wearing projects, use double-thickness cotton or a polyester mix sewing thread.
Colored viscose / rayon embroidery threads
They come in a selection of bright, acidic colors. Use to bind strips of fabric in wrapping.
Colored cotton embroidery thread
It is thicker than general sewing thread and suitable for hand-sewn decorative finishes.
All the above are basic the materials that you will probably need for rag work. You can use other materials as well, if you think they match.
Besides the materials you will need equipment as well. Rag work requires very few specialist tools. The equipment needed depends on which rag work techniques you are using. Plaiting and wrapping need least equipment of all; little more than a needle and thread. Knitting and crochet are done with ordinary needles. For hooking or prodding, you need a frame of some kind. Small projects can be worked in an embroidery hoop.
Here you can find a list of equipment that you will probably need.
1. Masking tape is used to stick down a tracing, prevent the raw edges of Hessian fraying, or to tape the rough edges of tapestry canvas, to avoid skin irritation.
2. Tape measure. This is an essential item and more flexible than a ruler.
3. Dressmaker's pins are handy to hold fabric in place before stitching.
4. Safety pin. This is used in the plaiting technique.
5. Sewing needles are constantly used for finishing, especially when attaching the backing cloth. Also they are important in plaiting.
6. Crochet hook (10 mm size) is needed for the crochet technique and it can also be used in the hooking technique.
7. Knitting needles (10 mm size) are used for the knitted patchwork rug.
8. Drawing paper. It is always a good idea to draw the design first.
9. White card is used for making templates.
10. Cutting mat. A plastic self-healing cutting mat prevents marking your table.
11. Tracing paper is used to sketch and transfer the design.
12. String is used in setting up a frame. By using a large-eyed needle, stitch the string through the Hessian and around the frame edge to get the Hessian taut.
13. Craft knife. Use as an alternative to scissors for cutting out templates.
14. Scissors are essential in all rag work projects. You need two pairs: a sharp pair for cutting fabric and a pair for cutting paper, foil and plastic, as these materials will blunt the blades.
15. Marker pen. A large, black, indelible marker pen works best for marking out the design on the Hessian
16. Transfer pencil. This is used to transfer the design on to the Hessian. Draw over the reverse of the artwork, and then iron on.
17. Prodder. This is a blunt-ended wooden tool used in making a prodded mat. An alternative is a large, smooth-ended wooden peg.
18. Hook. This has a hand-turned yew handle with a tapering brass sharp-ended hook. It is pushed through the Hessian up to the wooden handle, leaving a large hole.
19. Metre rule. Use this to mark out the outline of a large rug on to Hessian.
20. Ruler. Use this to measure straight edges for small-scale design work.
21. Large adjustable frame and pegs. The traditional wooden mat-making frame is adjustable, with two pieces of wood for the length, two) with drilled holes in which to position the pegs) for the sides, and four turned wooden pegs, one for each corner. The length can be wrapped round the frame so that you can continue working on the next area, approximately 56 cm deep. Hessian is stapled or strung on to the frame and the pegs are then positioned one at each corner, keeping the Hessian very taut. Use this for larger rugs and wall hangings.
22. Embroidery hoops are used to stretch Hessian for making smaller items.
23. Artist's stretchers make a good portable frame and are available in pairs in many different lengths. Always use a frame larger than the finished piece of work.
24. Pliers are used to cut wire, particularly in the wrapping technique.
25. Sewing machine. This is not an essential item, but very helpful for stitching applique and hems.
26. Rotary cutter. This is useful for quickly cutting layers of fabric into strips.
27. Staple gun. This can be used to attach the Hessian to the frame quickly.
28. Iron. Hessian is usually supplied either rolled or folded, so you may need to iron out any creases.
So, all you have to do is to gather all the materials and equipments that you will need (it is not necessary to have everything) and we will start together. Later I will give you the basic techniques and then I will tell you how you can make yourself rugs, jewellery, handbags, cushions and many more things that you probably would like to have or to give to your love ones.
Here I will start with the materials. Do not think of something expensive, the materials are recycled and therefore very inexpensive. Even the most unlikely fabrics, such as crimpling or unfashionable prints, are transformed when cut into strips and mixed with other colors and textures. Modern rag makers even use discarded plastic carrier bags, crisps and sweets packets. The other inexpensive material widely used in rag work is Hessian.
You can find below all the details that you will need concerning materials to use for rag work.
Cotton Fabrics
In particular old printed shirts and dresses or remnants, are ideal for rag work and particularly suitable for plaiting, crochet and knitting.
Jersey Fabrics
Cotton T-shirts are lovely to work with, fray very little and are good for cut or loop pile surfaces.
Fabric strips
A wide variety of fabric can be recycled, including old clothing, curtains and bedclothes. Cut off any fastenings and seams.
Plastic strips
These are a modern option to use with or instead of fabric. Plastic carrier bags slip easily through the Hessian and create unusual textures.
Foil strips
Add sparkle with foil-backed crisps packets and gift wrap.
Black felt
It is used as a smart backing cloth to finish jewellery, mirror frames and tablemats. Cut offcuts into strips and use in another project.
Calico
This is cheap, lightweight cotton very suitable for internal covers for cushion pads. It can be used as a backing cloth.
Hessian
Originally old sacking cloth was used to hook or prod through. Hessian, made from jute, has a pliable, woven construction and the warp and weft threads open and close easily. It is available in different weights. 250gr is perfect for rag work.
Tapestry canvas
It has a more rigid construction and can therefore be worked without a frame. For a rug, choose a weave of three holes to 2.5cm
Carpet webbing tape
This one is a heavy-duty woven calico tape, used to cover the edges of rugs. It comes in various widths.
Carpet binding tape
This is also used to bind edges and seams on the back of rugs.
Thin wire
It is useful in sculpted pieces. It is often used in the wrapping technique.
Latex carpet adhesive
It is used in backing finished pieces of rag work. Use in a well-ventilated area and avoid contact with clothing.
Clear-drying impact adhesive
It can be used in small amounts to stick backing cloth such as felt to smaller pieces of work.
Superglue
It is a very strong, quick-drying adhesive that is used to secure jewellery findings, such as ring fittings etc.
Brooch clip fastenings
These are available in metal in several designs. The two pictured are suitable for rag work jewellery. The brooch bar-style fastening is sewn to the back of work, while the round-shaped fastening is best stuck on.
Hair clip fastenings
They are available in several sizes. Measure the finished hairslide shape to determine the length of the bar needed.
Ring fittings
Made in metal, these are available in silver and gold finishes. Adjustable styles are best.
Drinks can ring pulls
They make ideal hangers for picture and mirror frames.
Elastic hair bands
These are available in a variety of colors so you can coordinate hair accessories.
Black sewing thread
It is used to tack down edges and to slip stitch black felt backing cloth into position.
Invisible thread
It is very strong. It is used to hem finish any color.
Colored sewing threads
For hard-wearing projects, use double-thickness cotton or a polyester mix sewing thread.
Colored viscose / rayon embroidery threads
They come in a selection of bright, acidic colors. Use to bind strips of fabric in wrapping.
Colored cotton embroidery thread
It is thicker than general sewing thread and suitable for hand-sewn decorative finishes.
All the above are basic the materials that you will probably need for rag work. You can use other materials as well, if you think they match.
Besides the materials you will need equipment as well. Rag work requires very few specialist tools. The equipment needed depends on which rag work techniques you are using. Plaiting and wrapping need least equipment of all; little more than a needle and thread. Knitting and crochet are done with ordinary needles. For hooking or prodding, you need a frame of some kind. Small projects can be worked in an embroidery hoop.
Here you can find a list of equipment that you will probably need.
1. Masking tape is used to stick down a tracing, prevent the raw edges of Hessian fraying, or to tape the rough edges of tapestry canvas, to avoid skin irritation.
2. Tape measure. This is an essential item and more flexible than a ruler.
3. Dressmaker's pins are handy to hold fabric in place before stitching.
4. Safety pin. This is used in the plaiting technique.
5. Sewing needles are constantly used for finishing, especially when attaching the backing cloth. Also they are important in plaiting.
6. Crochet hook (10 mm size) is needed for the crochet technique and it can also be used in the hooking technique.
7. Knitting needles (10 mm size) are used for the knitted patchwork rug.
8. Drawing paper. It is always a good idea to draw the design first.
9. White card is used for making templates.
10. Cutting mat. A plastic self-healing cutting mat prevents marking your table.
11. Tracing paper is used to sketch and transfer the design.
12. String is used in setting up a frame. By using a large-eyed needle, stitch the string through the Hessian and around the frame edge to get the Hessian taut.
13. Craft knife. Use as an alternative to scissors for cutting out templates.
14. Scissors are essential in all rag work projects. You need two pairs: a sharp pair for cutting fabric and a pair for cutting paper, foil and plastic, as these materials will blunt the blades.
15. Marker pen. A large, black, indelible marker pen works best for marking out the design on the Hessian
16. Transfer pencil. This is used to transfer the design on to the Hessian. Draw over the reverse of the artwork, and then iron on.
17. Prodder. This is a blunt-ended wooden tool used in making a prodded mat. An alternative is a large, smooth-ended wooden peg.
18. Hook. This has a hand-turned yew handle with a tapering brass sharp-ended hook. It is pushed through the Hessian up to the wooden handle, leaving a large hole.
19. Metre rule. Use this to mark out the outline of a large rug on to Hessian.
20. Ruler. Use this to measure straight edges for small-scale design work.
21. Large adjustable frame and pegs. The traditional wooden mat-making frame is adjustable, with two pieces of wood for the length, two) with drilled holes in which to position the pegs) for the sides, and four turned wooden pegs, one for each corner. The length can be wrapped round the frame so that you can continue working on the next area, approximately 56 cm deep. Hessian is stapled or strung on to the frame and the pegs are then positioned one at each corner, keeping the Hessian very taut. Use this for larger rugs and wall hangings.
22. Embroidery hoops are used to stretch Hessian for making smaller items.
23. Artist's stretchers make a good portable frame and are available in pairs in many different lengths. Always use a frame larger than the finished piece of work.
24. Pliers are used to cut wire, particularly in the wrapping technique.
25. Sewing machine. This is not an essential item, but very helpful for stitching applique and hems.
26. Rotary cutter. This is useful for quickly cutting layers of fabric into strips.
27. Staple gun. This can be used to attach the Hessian to the frame quickly.
28. Iron. Hessian is usually supplied either rolled or folded, so you may need to iron out any creases.
So, all you have to do is to gather all the materials and equipments that you will need (it is not necessary to have everything) and we will start together. Later I will give you the basic techniques and then I will tell you how you can make yourself rugs, jewellery, handbags, cushions and many more things that you probably would like to have or to give to your love ones.
Saturday, October 28, 2006
Personalized Candles you can Make Yourself
By Christina VanGinkel
I belong to several hobby related boards online. They relate to various hobbies that I or my husband and son are interested, or actively participate in. One of the boards is a scrapbooking board, but within it, there are several other boards related to various craft techniques and subjects related to crafts in general. It was on this board that I found myself browsing some of the messages yesterday. I ended up stumbling into a discussion about a technique I had never heard of, but found quite interesting. The technique that was under discussion involved getting an image, either words, picture, or a combination of both unto the face of a candle. When I first read it, I imagined the person used some fancy, probably expensive tool, but as I read into the posts further, I found just the opposite to be true. What was also under great discussion was how great the finished candles were as gifts. I could not agree more, that was if the technique were as simple as everyone was saying it was.
I decided that yes, it would be the perfect way to make some unique gifts for this upcoming holiday season. Even if it were not quite as simple as it seemed, as the instructions the woman had included in her post seemed almost too simple. I decided that I would look it up online a bit further to see if anything had been left out. While the internet might not always provide definitive answers for everything we come across, when it comes to the crafting hobbies, chances are you can find a wealth of information on just about any related subject if you just take the time to search for information.
What I found both surprised me and delighted me. In addition, I can tell you right now, that there are several people on my holiday gift list, which will be getting personalized candles this year.
Personalized Candle Instructions
After reading through several different people's observations on this craft, I tried out several, and ended up following along the basic steps to create my own personalized candles with no problems or issues whatsoever.
I chose a medium sized white candle to try this on, because that is what I had on hand. I imagine any sized or color candle will do. For the image and text that I chose to use, I printed it, via my inkjet printer, directly onto a sheet of white tissue paper (think thin wrapping paper). Note: I first taped the piece of tissue paper to a plain white sheet of regular printer paper, as the tissue paper seemed a bit too thin to send through my printer on its own, and I hate paper jams and avoid them at all costs. Once I had the image onto the tissue paper, I hand tore the image out, just leaving a very narrow margin around the whole thing. I could have also stamped an image onto the tissue paper and I believe it would work just as well, and I would not have had any worry about issues with the medium going through a printer.
I laid the candle on its side for this part, and I cheated a bit during this step and used just a tiny amount of glue, to keep the image in place on the candle where I wanted it to be. I would not recommend gluing it in place, just a tiny dot, or two on the edges to keep in flat on the curve of the candle.
I then turned my heat gun on and keeping it a few inches away from the candle, but close enough to heat it up just a bit, I moved the heat gun in a back and forth motion so that the wax heated up enough and melded together with the image. What resulted was a personalized candle that looked as if I had it done professionally. When I thought how easy it would be to make candles with my friend's names on, or with sayings or even short pieces of poetry, I realized I will never be without a last minute gift again as long as I keep a few candle s on hand. Finished off with a bit of ribbon, or ribbon and a couple of charms or beads, and even a last minute gift will look as if I spent hours making it or putting the details together to have someone else create it!
I belong to several hobby related boards online. They relate to various hobbies that I or my husband and son are interested, or actively participate in. One of the boards is a scrapbooking board, but within it, there are several other boards related to various craft techniques and subjects related to crafts in general. It was on this board that I found myself browsing some of the messages yesterday. I ended up stumbling into a discussion about a technique I had never heard of, but found quite interesting. The technique that was under discussion involved getting an image, either words, picture, or a combination of both unto the face of a candle. When I first read it, I imagined the person used some fancy, probably expensive tool, but as I read into the posts further, I found just the opposite to be true. What was also under great discussion was how great the finished candles were as gifts. I could not agree more, that was if the technique were as simple as everyone was saying it was.
I decided that yes, it would be the perfect way to make some unique gifts for this upcoming holiday season. Even if it were not quite as simple as it seemed, as the instructions the woman had included in her post seemed almost too simple. I decided that I would look it up online a bit further to see if anything had been left out. While the internet might not always provide definitive answers for everything we come across, when it comes to the crafting hobbies, chances are you can find a wealth of information on just about any related subject if you just take the time to search for information.
What I found both surprised me and delighted me. In addition, I can tell you right now, that there are several people on my holiday gift list, which will be getting personalized candles this year.
Personalized Candle Instructions
After reading through several different people's observations on this craft, I tried out several, and ended up following along the basic steps to create my own personalized candles with no problems or issues whatsoever.
I chose a medium sized white candle to try this on, because that is what I had on hand. I imagine any sized or color candle will do. For the image and text that I chose to use, I printed it, via my inkjet printer, directly onto a sheet of white tissue paper (think thin wrapping paper). Note: I first taped the piece of tissue paper to a plain white sheet of regular printer paper, as the tissue paper seemed a bit too thin to send through my printer on its own, and I hate paper jams and avoid them at all costs. Once I had the image onto the tissue paper, I hand tore the image out, just leaving a very narrow margin around the whole thing. I could have also stamped an image onto the tissue paper and I believe it would work just as well, and I would not have had any worry about issues with the medium going through a printer.
I laid the candle on its side for this part, and I cheated a bit during this step and used just a tiny amount of glue, to keep the image in place on the candle where I wanted it to be. I would not recommend gluing it in place, just a tiny dot, or two on the edges to keep in flat on the curve of the candle.
I then turned my heat gun on and keeping it a few inches away from the candle, but close enough to heat it up just a bit, I moved the heat gun in a back and forth motion so that the wax heated up enough and melded together with the image. What resulted was a personalized candle that looked as if I had it done professionally. When I thought how easy it would be to make candles with my friend's names on, or with sayings or even short pieces of poetry, I realized I will never be without a last minute gift again as long as I keep a few candle s on hand. Finished off with a bit of ribbon, or ribbon and a couple of charms or beads, and even a last minute gift will look as if I spent hours making it or putting the details together to have someone else create it!
Thursday, October 26, 2006
Creating your own Altered Embellishments
By Christina VanGinkel
Altering common household items to create embellishments to scrap or make personalized cards with is a great way to stretch your craft budget. Many of the items that are easy to alter, often have an equivalent on the average scrapbook, or craft store shelf, but were first borrowed at home by some ingenious scrapper, to be transformed into the very product you see in the stores for busy scrappers. What so many of us overlook though, is that if we have the time and the tools, there is nothing wrong with creating our own counterparts today. Just because the embellishments are now available to buy in their already finished form, does not mean that we cannot still make them at home cheaper or even free. In addition, because we are altering the items ourselves, we can personalize the pieces in a manner that will fit our projects better than anything we could ever buy anyway, on top of saving money, which was often the motivation behind their original counterparts to begin with.
Bottle Caps
Bottle caps are one of the easiest and most fun things to alter. They can be painted, words can be stenciled or freehanded across them, you can use stickers directly on them, or they can even be used as is once they are flattened. I have seen them used as centers of flowers, with the flower petals doodled around the edges, as wheels in a layout, or just lined up in a row, spelling out a saying or name. Bottle caps are fun to use in various ways. I cringe when I see what some companies charge for them though, especially when they are so inexpensive to come buy and so incredibly easy to alter.
All you need is safety glasses, a rubber mallet, and somewhere to put the rubber mallet to use. A good friend does the deed right on her carpeted living room floor, but I would opt for somewhere that the occasional flying bottle cap will not break or scratch anything. I like to do mine on the railing of our deck.
Place the bottle cap top side up, and give it a couple of good whacks with a rubber mallet. (This doubles as a great way to relieve stress, especially if you have a dozen or so lined up to alter all at once). When it is flattened, flip it over and give it another good whack to flatten completely. Once you have the number you need or want to do all flat, decorate with paint, stickers, enamel, or any way you can dream up!
Paper Clips
Paper clips can be used in a variety of ways. Available not only in a huge assortment of colors, finishes, and sizes, they can be used as is, or altered into various creations. Because not all paper clips are made of the same materials, some brands and finishes will work better for being altered than others. What are paper clips good for other than clipping paper together? With a pair of round nosed pliers, you can transform a typical paper clip into all sorts of amazing creations. If you are unsure if the clips you have are suitable for such manipulation, your best way to find out is to try one. To start, decide what shape you would like to try to make. A simple swirl is the easiest thing I have found for beginners. Once that shape is made successfully, try something more difficult. Before you know it, you will be able to create all sorts of mini metal embellishments that will look like you paid big bucks for, but cost you nothing more than some time and a few paper clips. The one compatibility problem I have run into was when I tried to bend a couple of clips that in retrospect looked painted. As soon as I started to unfold the clip, the color, or paint, started to chip off.
Choose a thin metal paper clip to begin, or a colored plastic coated one as they are often of a very pliable metal. Straighten the paper clip out to begin with; unfolding the folds that the paper clips has been formed into. Grab one end of the clip with the round nosed pliers and turn slowly, creating a swirl. Once you are comfortable bending the clips, you can make anything from letters to complete words, flowers, and other simple shapes.
Altering common household items to create embellishments to scrap or make personalized cards with is a great way to stretch your craft budget. Many of the items that are easy to alter, often have an equivalent on the average scrapbook, or craft store shelf, but were first borrowed at home by some ingenious scrapper, to be transformed into the very product you see in the stores for busy scrappers. What so many of us overlook though, is that if we have the time and the tools, there is nothing wrong with creating our own counterparts today. Just because the embellishments are now available to buy in their already finished form, does not mean that we cannot still make them at home cheaper or even free. In addition, because we are altering the items ourselves, we can personalize the pieces in a manner that will fit our projects better than anything we could ever buy anyway, on top of saving money, which was often the motivation behind their original counterparts to begin with.
Bottle Caps
Bottle caps are one of the easiest and most fun things to alter. They can be painted, words can be stenciled or freehanded across them, you can use stickers directly on them, or they can even be used as is once they are flattened. I have seen them used as centers of flowers, with the flower petals doodled around the edges, as wheels in a layout, or just lined up in a row, spelling out a saying or name. Bottle caps are fun to use in various ways. I cringe when I see what some companies charge for them though, especially when they are so inexpensive to come buy and so incredibly easy to alter.
All you need is safety glasses, a rubber mallet, and somewhere to put the rubber mallet to use. A good friend does the deed right on her carpeted living room floor, but I would opt for somewhere that the occasional flying bottle cap will not break or scratch anything. I like to do mine on the railing of our deck.
Place the bottle cap top side up, and give it a couple of good whacks with a rubber mallet. (This doubles as a great way to relieve stress, especially if you have a dozen or so lined up to alter all at once). When it is flattened, flip it over and give it another good whack to flatten completely. Once you have the number you need or want to do all flat, decorate with paint, stickers, enamel, or any way you can dream up!
Paper Clips
Paper clips can be used in a variety of ways. Available not only in a huge assortment of colors, finishes, and sizes, they can be used as is, or altered into various creations. Because not all paper clips are made of the same materials, some brands and finishes will work better for being altered than others. What are paper clips good for other than clipping paper together? With a pair of round nosed pliers, you can transform a typical paper clip into all sorts of amazing creations. If you are unsure if the clips you have are suitable for such manipulation, your best way to find out is to try one. To start, decide what shape you would like to try to make. A simple swirl is the easiest thing I have found for beginners. Once that shape is made successfully, try something more difficult. Before you know it, you will be able to create all sorts of mini metal embellishments that will look like you paid big bucks for, but cost you nothing more than some time and a few paper clips. The one compatibility problem I have run into was when I tried to bend a couple of clips that in retrospect looked painted. As soon as I started to unfold the clip, the color, or paint, started to chip off.
Choose a thin metal paper clip to begin, or a colored plastic coated one as they are often of a very pliable metal. Straighten the paper clip out to begin with; unfolding the folds that the paper clips has been formed into. Grab one end of the clip with the round nosed pliers and turn slowly, creating a swirl. Once you are comfortable bending the clips, you can make anything from letters to complete words, flowers, and other simple shapes.
The Hobby of Archery and the Whitetail Deer
By Christina VanGinkel
My youngest son, fourteen years old, and yet to participate in a hobby or activity that he has not been able to master, might have finally met his match. He has been an avid shooter of the bow and arrow for several years. He practices often and is quite a good shot. He is the type of person that if he is going to do something, he is going to do it well.
Filled with self-assurance of his shooting ability, and having harvested a deer already, albeit a small racked one, he had no lack of confidence that this year if he was able to lure in a large buck that had been seen around the area into his stand, that he would be able to get it.
What he did not count on, though he had been warned of this well-known factor by his father and several other seasoned hunters, was a small thing called buck fever. Buck fever occurs to the best of hunters, at the most inopportune times. It affects a hunter by taking their normal shooting stance and all of their practiced skills and putting them as far out of whack as anyone could imagine by adding a shaking tremor, sometimes so deep that their teeth rattle.
The story goes like this. My son put in hours of hard labor to build a food plot on our land earlier this past summer. He borrowed equipment to till the raw land, breaking through topsoil, picking rocks, until finally the piece of land was ready for planting. After planting it, we entered one of the most severe droughts our state has ever seen. So in order to protect all his labor, he had to haul water (it was too far for something as simple as a garden hose to reach) via a trailer on the back of his old four-wheeler to keep the precious seedlings growing, and by early fall, he ended up having a very respectable food plot. Still, the work was not done. Planted in the middle of a stand of hardwoods, he then had to keep the plot raked as the leaves fell off the trees, covering, and smothering, the still young plants.
Because of all his hard work, the food plot survived, and there was soon sign of deer coming to visit. Season opened, and he continued to see signs of deer and even saw several does. Then, he saw him, a very nice sized eight-point buck, obviously the same one that others had seen around the area. The same day, he actually saw another one, also an eight pointer, but with a much narrower rack and thinner tines. He never got a chance to pull back his bow though, as they stayed well out of reach on a ridge that runs towards the back of our property.
A couple of weeks into the bow season, our state held an early youth hunt, where hunters under a specific age could hunt with their guns they would normally use during the upcoming gun season in November, for one weekend. If they shot a buck, it would fill their gun tag, but it was a great opportunity for a youth to hunt the woods without the pressure of a typical full-blown gun season.
As fate would have it, the smaller of the two eight pointers came into range of my son with his gun on that weekend and he downed him with one shot. This bolstered his confidence that he would not get shaky and have buck fever if the big one were to come within range of him and his bow.
This past weekend, as afternoon wore on, my son found himself sitting in his bow stand when the buck he had worked all summer and fall to attract to his stand finally made his appearance. My son kept his cool and waited for the buck to come into range of his bow and to turn just so, giving him the best shot he could have hoped for. After this, it all gets a bit blurry, but when he came down out of his stand, he knew he had missed him. He knew he had not even come close. He recalls shaking tremendously. He now knows what his father and others had told him about the malady so many hunters refer to as Buck Fever. Now he knows what to expect though, and he thinks he can control the wild woe that has felled so many whitetail hunters. We will not know for sure though, until the next time that big one comes in.
My youngest son, fourteen years old, and yet to participate in a hobby or activity that he has not been able to master, might have finally met his match. He has been an avid shooter of the bow and arrow for several years. He practices often and is quite a good shot. He is the type of person that if he is going to do something, he is going to do it well.
Filled with self-assurance of his shooting ability, and having harvested a deer already, albeit a small racked one, he had no lack of confidence that this year if he was able to lure in a large buck that had been seen around the area into his stand, that he would be able to get it.
What he did not count on, though he had been warned of this well-known factor by his father and several other seasoned hunters, was a small thing called buck fever. Buck fever occurs to the best of hunters, at the most inopportune times. It affects a hunter by taking their normal shooting stance and all of their practiced skills and putting them as far out of whack as anyone could imagine by adding a shaking tremor, sometimes so deep that their teeth rattle.
The story goes like this. My son put in hours of hard labor to build a food plot on our land earlier this past summer. He borrowed equipment to till the raw land, breaking through topsoil, picking rocks, until finally the piece of land was ready for planting. After planting it, we entered one of the most severe droughts our state has ever seen. So in order to protect all his labor, he had to haul water (it was too far for something as simple as a garden hose to reach) via a trailer on the back of his old four-wheeler to keep the precious seedlings growing, and by early fall, he ended up having a very respectable food plot. Still, the work was not done. Planted in the middle of a stand of hardwoods, he then had to keep the plot raked as the leaves fell off the trees, covering, and smothering, the still young plants.
Because of all his hard work, the food plot survived, and there was soon sign of deer coming to visit. Season opened, and he continued to see signs of deer and even saw several does. Then, he saw him, a very nice sized eight-point buck, obviously the same one that others had seen around the area. The same day, he actually saw another one, also an eight pointer, but with a much narrower rack and thinner tines. He never got a chance to pull back his bow though, as they stayed well out of reach on a ridge that runs towards the back of our property.
A couple of weeks into the bow season, our state held an early youth hunt, where hunters under a specific age could hunt with their guns they would normally use during the upcoming gun season in November, for one weekend. If they shot a buck, it would fill their gun tag, but it was a great opportunity for a youth to hunt the woods without the pressure of a typical full-blown gun season.
As fate would have it, the smaller of the two eight pointers came into range of my son with his gun on that weekend and he downed him with one shot. This bolstered his confidence that he would not get shaky and have buck fever if the big one were to come within range of him and his bow.
This past weekend, as afternoon wore on, my son found himself sitting in his bow stand when the buck he had worked all summer and fall to attract to his stand finally made his appearance. My son kept his cool and waited for the buck to come into range of his bow and to turn just so, giving him the best shot he could have hoped for. After this, it all gets a bit blurry, but when he came down out of his stand, he knew he had missed him. He knew he had not even come close. He recalls shaking tremendously. He now knows what his father and others had told him about the malady so many hunters refer to as Buck Fever. Now he knows what to expect though, and he thinks he can control the wild woe that has felled so many whitetail hunters. We will not know for sure though, until the next time that big one comes in.
Wednesday, October 25, 2006
Scrapbook on the Wall
By Christina VanGinkel
Ok, the title is a tad misleading, as I do not mean for you to actually scrapbook 'on' the wall (though that could work!), but to create a scrapbook layout that is worthy of hanging on the wall. The idea came to me when I was in a small store that had a framing counter the other day and was browsing through a bin of odd sized picture frames that the storeowner had put clearance prices on. Many of the frames were good quality, but of such odd sizes, I could not at first imagine what I would frame with any of them. At about that time, a woman walked over, picked up a couple of the frames and started measuring them with a small tape measure she had attached to her keychain (I wish I were so organized) and ended up picking out several to buy. I could not help but ask her what she intended to frame with them, as the sizes were so odd. She quickly responded the sizes were not odd, that the ones she had picked up were sizes she had been looking for to frame her law degree and a couple other certificates she had earned.
At least at this point, I knew that the frames actually were made to frame something specific. Apparently, there is a whole market of different sized frames out there, but unless one has a use for them, we get our brains stuck on the more common sizes that we see everyday such as your typical 8" x 10". Sure, I knew frames were made larger for painting and artwork, but for everyday framing, we never give these sizes much thought, at least I never did.
Browsing through the bin a bit further, I did get an idea, though it was nothing as grand as going to law school to earn a degree to fit in one of the frames. I realized by turning one of the very frames she had picked up, on its side, it would make an good frame to create a landscape scrapbook layout, but not for including in any scrapbook, but to hang on the wall. At about this time I saw another frame that was about twenty inches by ten inches. It had an included mat that was made to hold three separate pictures, but my mind was racing by this time and thought this would be ideal for an idea I had just conceived, all I would have to do is remove the matting. I alter learned this was not really a new idea, but at the time it was new to me.
What I created turned out to be one of the most fun pieces of scrapping that I have ever done. I actually started out with the mind frame that it would be no different from a typical scrapbook layout, other than the size. Was I ever wrong. When I kept thinking that, the finished piece would hang on my wall, where everyone from family and friends to casual visitors would be able to view it, my approach changed somewhat. I wanted to make a piece of art. I wanted to create a layout that was both pleasing to my sense of what the page should represent, and have it fit in with my eclectic style of decor. I wanted it to be what I perceived of making it and that meant that ultimately it needed to be fun. For you, the outcome could be a piece that is sentimental, serious, thought provoking, whatever. For myself personally, I wanted the piece to represent the one emotion I have most often when I scrap and that is exactly what it ended up being. I also wanted it to be a layout though, not just a group of framed pictures.
The choice of subject was easy to choose, my son on his motocross bike. I had done previous layouts, but because of the limitations on size, I had never captured what I felt was the true emotion of his riding enjoyment. Because of the length of the layout, I was able to create a panorama of him going around the track and over jumps. I was able to capture a whole scene and not just a single snippet of one occasion. I added journaling that expressed both my fear of seeing him fly over the jumps, and my being proud at seeing him accomplish something that not everyone is able or willing to try. I also added depth by including some embellishments that I never would have thought to include in a traditional scrapbook layout, namely links from a chain that he broke and I salvaged pieces of just for the project.
I had heard others express a similar feeling of astonishment when they went from a small format scrapbook to a larger format for the first time, and while I understood their feelings to a point, this different approach to a hobby I enjoy so immensely, to me epitomized the whole pastime perfectly. It allowed me to express my perception of my son's enjoyment and my perception of it, in a way that would never have fit the boundaries of a traditional scrapbook layout. At the same time permitted me to draw on facets of scrapbooking, such as journaling and the use of embellishments, which one would not normally include in a typical framed print to hang on the wall.
Ok, the title is a tad misleading, as I do not mean for you to actually scrapbook 'on' the wall (though that could work!), but to create a scrapbook layout that is worthy of hanging on the wall. The idea came to me when I was in a small store that had a framing counter the other day and was browsing through a bin of odd sized picture frames that the storeowner had put clearance prices on. Many of the frames were good quality, but of such odd sizes, I could not at first imagine what I would frame with any of them. At about that time, a woman walked over, picked up a couple of the frames and started measuring them with a small tape measure she had attached to her keychain (I wish I were so organized) and ended up picking out several to buy. I could not help but ask her what she intended to frame with them, as the sizes were so odd. She quickly responded the sizes were not odd, that the ones she had picked up were sizes she had been looking for to frame her law degree and a couple other certificates she had earned.
At least at this point, I knew that the frames actually were made to frame something specific. Apparently, there is a whole market of different sized frames out there, but unless one has a use for them, we get our brains stuck on the more common sizes that we see everyday such as your typical 8" x 10". Sure, I knew frames were made larger for painting and artwork, but for everyday framing, we never give these sizes much thought, at least I never did.
Browsing through the bin a bit further, I did get an idea, though it was nothing as grand as going to law school to earn a degree to fit in one of the frames. I realized by turning one of the very frames she had picked up, on its side, it would make an good frame to create a landscape scrapbook layout, but not for including in any scrapbook, but to hang on the wall. At about this time I saw another frame that was about twenty inches by ten inches. It had an included mat that was made to hold three separate pictures, but my mind was racing by this time and thought this would be ideal for an idea I had just conceived, all I would have to do is remove the matting. I alter learned this was not really a new idea, but at the time it was new to me.
What I created turned out to be one of the most fun pieces of scrapping that I have ever done. I actually started out with the mind frame that it would be no different from a typical scrapbook layout, other than the size. Was I ever wrong. When I kept thinking that, the finished piece would hang on my wall, where everyone from family and friends to casual visitors would be able to view it, my approach changed somewhat. I wanted to make a piece of art. I wanted to create a layout that was both pleasing to my sense of what the page should represent, and have it fit in with my eclectic style of decor. I wanted it to be what I perceived of making it and that meant that ultimately it needed to be fun. For you, the outcome could be a piece that is sentimental, serious, thought provoking, whatever. For myself personally, I wanted the piece to represent the one emotion I have most often when I scrap and that is exactly what it ended up being. I also wanted it to be a layout though, not just a group of framed pictures.
The choice of subject was easy to choose, my son on his motocross bike. I had done previous layouts, but because of the limitations on size, I had never captured what I felt was the true emotion of his riding enjoyment. Because of the length of the layout, I was able to create a panorama of him going around the track and over jumps. I was able to capture a whole scene and not just a single snippet of one occasion. I added journaling that expressed both my fear of seeing him fly over the jumps, and my being proud at seeing him accomplish something that not everyone is able or willing to try. I also added depth by including some embellishments that I never would have thought to include in a traditional scrapbook layout, namely links from a chain that he broke and I salvaged pieces of just for the project.
I had heard others express a similar feeling of astonishment when they went from a small format scrapbook to a larger format for the first time, and while I understood their feelings to a point, this different approach to a hobby I enjoy so immensely, to me epitomized the whole pastime perfectly. It allowed me to express my perception of my son's enjoyment and my perception of it, in a way that would never have fit the boundaries of a traditional scrapbook layout. At the same time permitted me to draw on facets of scrapbooking, such as journaling and the use of embellishments, which one would not normally include in a typical framed print to hang on the wall.
Tuesday, October 24, 2006
Archery For Beginners
By Simon Woodhouse
Thanks in no small part to the success of the Lord Of The Rings movies, archery as a hobby has grown in popularity over the last few years, especially among young people. But as a pastime, it has been around for hundreds, if not thousands, of years and enjoyed by all classes of society. The bow and arrow themselves are much older still, with stone arrowheads discovered in Africa suggesting the weapon may have first been used as early as 50,000 BC.
Some of today's modern bows would certainly impress the original African inventors, but the method of firing the weapon is still the same as it was right back then. Technology may help to create bows of greater power and accuracy, however the skill and patience of the archer is still just as important.
For anyone wanting to take up archery as a hobby, your best bet is to join a club or association. These organisations will not only put you in touch with experienced people, they'll also provide somewhere for you to practice and hone your skills. A bow and arrow, after all, combine to make a ranged weapon, which is not something that should be used unsupervised by the totally in experienced, in an environment where they might pose a danger to others (i.e. your backyard). Members of your local archery club will be more than willing to advise you on what sort of equipment to buy, but I'll give you a quick run down here.
First and foremost, you'll need a bow. Primarily these come in three types. First of all there's the traditional bow, the sort of weapon used by Robin Hood in countless movies. This is a wooden bow, often about six feet long and used with wooden arrows. These arrows will be fletched (fitted with) real feathers, in keeping with the traditional theme. If you want something a little more modern, there's the recurve bow. This is so called because the ends of the bow curve outward, away from the archer when it is held in the firing position. If you've ever seen archery on the TV during the Olympic games, the competitors will have been using recurve bows. You may also have noticed the sights and stabilizers attached to the bow. These give the archer a greater degree of accuracy when firing the carbon fiber arrows. Lastly there's the compound bow, a relatively new piece of archery equipment (it first appeared around 1970). These bows require less strength on the part of the archer in order for the arrow to travel a greater distance. This is achieved by having the string pass through a pair of small pulleys, one mounted on each end of the bow. As well as offering a greater range, a compound bow is also very accurate.
Ok, so once you've decided on what sort of bow you'd like, you'll need another couple of pieces of equipment. An important safety item is a bracer. This is a strip of leather or PVC, that's strapped to the inside of your forearm just below whichever hand holds the bow. The bracer then protects the skin on the inside of the arm (a very tender spot), from being twanged by the bowstring as you fire an arrow. On your other hand you'll do well to have a tab. When you're pulling the bowstring back, you use the three fingers of whichever hand holds the end of the arrow. The tab sits on the tips of these three fingers, and helps to stop the string digging into your skin as you're preparing to fire. Finally a quiver to hold your arrows (usually attached to your belt and not slung over your shoulder as per Robin Hood), is a handy place to keep them.
Now you're kitted out with your bow, arrows and the basic equipment needed to get started, it's time to decide what type of archery you'd like to participate in. The most well known discipline is target archery. In this event, the archer stands at a fixed distance from a circular target, and fires a set number of arrows (normally 3 or 6). The target is divided into a series of concentric circles, the smallest of which is at the center. As this is the most difficult to hit it's worth the most points - ten. The other circles are then worth less and less as they radiate outward, with the one on the outside scoring only a single point. The winner in this competition is the archer who's scored the most points by the end of the tournament. Field archery involves a similar principle, but instead of standing in front of a target positioned on a level surface, the archer walks between a series of targets (usually set up within an undulating, wooded area), pausing in front of each to shoot. As the terrain differs from one target to the next, the archer has to adjust his style accordingly. Lastly there's flight archery. Probably the simplest discipline, it involves the archer firing an arrow as far as he/she can. There's no target, as distance is all that counts. Though the most straightforward type of archery, flight is in fact where the real innovation in bow technology happens, with the competitors constantly looking for lighter, more powerful equipment.
Nowadays, with the various improvements to bow design, archery is a hobby that can be enjoyed by almost anyone. Composite bows mean big biceps are not a prerequisite, with patience and accuracy being more important than strength. So if you want to enjoy an age-old pastime, and get a bit of fresh air while you're at it, perhaps you should give archery a try.
Thanks in no small part to the success of the Lord Of The Rings movies, archery as a hobby has grown in popularity over the last few years, especially among young people. But as a pastime, it has been around for hundreds, if not thousands, of years and enjoyed by all classes of society. The bow and arrow themselves are much older still, with stone arrowheads discovered in Africa suggesting the weapon may have first been used as early as 50,000 BC.
Some of today's modern bows would certainly impress the original African inventors, but the method of firing the weapon is still the same as it was right back then. Technology may help to create bows of greater power and accuracy, however the skill and patience of the archer is still just as important.
For anyone wanting to take up archery as a hobby, your best bet is to join a club or association. These organisations will not only put you in touch with experienced people, they'll also provide somewhere for you to practice and hone your skills. A bow and arrow, after all, combine to make a ranged weapon, which is not something that should be used unsupervised by the totally in experienced, in an environment where they might pose a danger to others (i.e. your backyard). Members of your local archery club will be more than willing to advise you on what sort of equipment to buy, but I'll give you a quick run down here.
First and foremost, you'll need a bow. Primarily these come in three types. First of all there's the traditional bow, the sort of weapon used by Robin Hood in countless movies. This is a wooden bow, often about six feet long and used with wooden arrows. These arrows will be fletched (fitted with) real feathers, in keeping with the traditional theme. If you want something a little more modern, there's the recurve bow. This is so called because the ends of the bow curve outward, away from the archer when it is held in the firing position. If you've ever seen archery on the TV during the Olympic games, the competitors will have been using recurve bows. You may also have noticed the sights and stabilizers attached to the bow. These give the archer a greater degree of accuracy when firing the carbon fiber arrows. Lastly there's the compound bow, a relatively new piece of archery equipment (it first appeared around 1970). These bows require less strength on the part of the archer in order for the arrow to travel a greater distance. This is achieved by having the string pass through a pair of small pulleys, one mounted on each end of the bow. As well as offering a greater range, a compound bow is also very accurate.
Ok, so once you've decided on what sort of bow you'd like, you'll need another couple of pieces of equipment. An important safety item is a bracer. This is a strip of leather or PVC, that's strapped to the inside of your forearm just below whichever hand holds the bow. The bracer then protects the skin on the inside of the arm (a very tender spot), from being twanged by the bowstring as you fire an arrow. On your other hand you'll do well to have a tab. When you're pulling the bowstring back, you use the three fingers of whichever hand holds the end of the arrow. The tab sits on the tips of these three fingers, and helps to stop the string digging into your skin as you're preparing to fire. Finally a quiver to hold your arrows (usually attached to your belt and not slung over your shoulder as per Robin Hood), is a handy place to keep them.
Now you're kitted out with your bow, arrows and the basic equipment needed to get started, it's time to decide what type of archery you'd like to participate in. The most well known discipline is target archery. In this event, the archer stands at a fixed distance from a circular target, and fires a set number of arrows (normally 3 or 6). The target is divided into a series of concentric circles, the smallest of which is at the center. As this is the most difficult to hit it's worth the most points - ten. The other circles are then worth less and less as they radiate outward, with the one on the outside scoring only a single point. The winner in this competition is the archer who's scored the most points by the end of the tournament. Field archery involves a similar principle, but instead of standing in front of a target positioned on a level surface, the archer walks between a series of targets (usually set up within an undulating, wooded area), pausing in front of each to shoot. As the terrain differs from one target to the next, the archer has to adjust his style accordingly. Lastly there's flight archery. Probably the simplest discipline, it involves the archer firing an arrow as far as he/she can. There's no target, as distance is all that counts. Though the most straightforward type of archery, flight is in fact where the real innovation in bow technology happens, with the competitors constantly looking for lighter, more powerful equipment.
Nowadays, with the various improvements to bow design, archery is a hobby that can be enjoyed by almost anyone. Composite bows mean big biceps are not a prerequisite, with patience and accuracy being more important than strength. So if you want to enjoy an age-old pastime, and get a bit of fresh air while you're at it, perhaps you should give archery a try.
Keep your Scrapbook Layouts Simple and Uncluttered
By Christina VanGinkel
Busy scrapbook layouts can be fun, but sometimes the mood of the picture, lack of time, or just a wanting for a basic layout is what is called for. For whatever reason you decide that a simple, uncluttered look is right, go for it. Too often, when we create a layout, we feel that we have to use a bit of everything that we have in our supplies. Busy embellishments, large or multiple borders, pockets, layered mats, etc. Before you know it, the page is cluttered and the heart of the page, the picture itself and the meaning behind it are lost. For this reason, special photos, which can hold their own, work the best. Keep this in mind when choosing a photo to use in such a layout.
To solve this common dilemma will actually take a bit of backwards psychology so to speak. Think back to when you first shopped for a couple of scrapbooking supplies to create your first page or two. You most likely were unsure of what you might all need, but in the back of some magazine or on a website, possibly from a friend's advice, you created a list of all the things you needed to begin. The list was probably pretty basic, and included cardstock, paper scraps for matting, scissors or a paper cutter, pen, glue, and not much else save for the pictures you intended to scrap. This short list will still suffice today and you can end up with some very impressive layouts. To begin, take some time to consider what you want the layout to be representative of.
To accomplish this, take the time to concentrate on the picture or pictures you plan to scrap. Simple, uncluttered layouts are actually ideal for those single photo layouts. They can be a typical 4" x 6" snapshot or larger if that is what you have. Do not assume that just because you are not going to go wild with the embellishments that you need to fill the space with the photograph though.
Still concentrating on the photograph, pick a single, or at the most, two colors to use as accents on the page. Plan where you will place the photo(s). A good way to decide where to place your photo(s) is to keep in mind the rule of thirds when choosing. An example of the rule of thirds in relation to a simple and uncluttered layout would be if you used one third of the layout for the photo, one third for the journaling, and one third for color or patterned paper.
For the concept of simple and uncluttered, keep in mind that this does not mean to fill each third of the space with such items, only that if you break apart the page in your mind that each third should be home to one of the choices. These thirds can also overlap if desired. In addition, the thirds can be broke apart in any shape you decide upon, either vertically or horizontally.
Let us walk this through to give you a better grasp of what I am talking about. For the sake of simplicity, we will confer that you are working on a single page 12" x 12" page. Your choice of photo is a single 4" x 6" snapshot. Breaking apart the page into thirds in you mind, position your colored or patterned paper on the page for a border or for use as a title. Create a journaling block and place that down onto the page into another third of the area. Finally, mat your photo and set it into the final third of the page's space.
Once you have the layout to this point, feel free to move things around until you are comfortable with their placement. Remember that this is not the time to reach for embellishments. If the page seems like it still needs something, consider expanding the matting to a double mat, add some doodling between the photo and the border, or create a title on the border itself with some simple lettering. If your journaling seems a bit lost, give it a border or underline it with a thin strip of coordinating colored or patterned paper that you used for the border or title.
When you are satisfied with the placement of your pieces on the page, affix everything in place and share with your family and friends.
Busy scrapbook layouts can be fun, but sometimes the mood of the picture, lack of time, or just a wanting for a basic layout is what is called for. For whatever reason you decide that a simple, uncluttered look is right, go for it. Too often, when we create a layout, we feel that we have to use a bit of everything that we have in our supplies. Busy embellishments, large or multiple borders, pockets, layered mats, etc. Before you know it, the page is cluttered and the heart of the page, the picture itself and the meaning behind it are lost. For this reason, special photos, which can hold their own, work the best. Keep this in mind when choosing a photo to use in such a layout.
To solve this common dilemma will actually take a bit of backwards psychology so to speak. Think back to when you first shopped for a couple of scrapbooking supplies to create your first page or two. You most likely were unsure of what you might all need, but in the back of some magazine or on a website, possibly from a friend's advice, you created a list of all the things you needed to begin. The list was probably pretty basic, and included cardstock, paper scraps for matting, scissors or a paper cutter, pen, glue, and not much else save for the pictures you intended to scrap. This short list will still suffice today and you can end up with some very impressive layouts. To begin, take some time to consider what you want the layout to be representative of.
To accomplish this, take the time to concentrate on the picture or pictures you plan to scrap. Simple, uncluttered layouts are actually ideal for those single photo layouts. They can be a typical 4" x 6" snapshot or larger if that is what you have. Do not assume that just because you are not going to go wild with the embellishments that you need to fill the space with the photograph though.
Still concentrating on the photograph, pick a single, or at the most, two colors to use as accents on the page. Plan where you will place the photo(s). A good way to decide where to place your photo(s) is to keep in mind the rule of thirds when choosing. An example of the rule of thirds in relation to a simple and uncluttered layout would be if you used one third of the layout for the photo, one third for the journaling, and one third for color or patterned paper.
For the concept of simple and uncluttered, keep in mind that this does not mean to fill each third of the space with such items, only that if you break apart the page in your mind that each third should be home to one of the choices. These thirds can also overlap if desired. In addition, the thirds can be broke apart in any shape you decide upon, either vertically or horizontally.
Let us walk this through to give you a better grasp of what I am talking about. For the sake of simplicity, we will confer that you are working on a single page 12" x 12" page. Your choice of photo is a single 4" x 6" snapshot. Breaking apart the page into thirds in you mind, position your colored or patterned paper on the page for a border or for use as a title. Create a journaling block and place that down onto the page into another third of the area. Finally, mat your photo and set it into the final third of the page's space.
Once you have the layout to this point, feel free to move things around until you are comfortable with their placement. Remember that this is not the time to reach for embellishments. If the page seems like it still needs something, consider expanding the matting to a double mat, add some doodling between the photo and the border, or create a title on the border itself with some simple lettering. If your journaling seems a bit lost, give it a border or underline it with a thin strip of coordinating colored or patterned paper that you used for the border or title.
When you are satisfied with the placement of your pieces on the page, affix everything in place and share with your family and friends.
Easter Creations (by 4Ernesto)
I enjoy creating objects for special occasions; I hope you do as well. Here I will try to give you some ideas on how to make your Easter a truly special and memorable occasion for your family and friends. All the ideas are very easy and fast to make. The materials can be found in stores (craft shops, bookshops, DIY etc). If you use your imagination and change a bit the materials they can be used for Christmas or birthdays as well.
Easter Bonnet Card
1. Cut a piece of cardboard 15 x 22cm, score and fold to 11cm. Cut a length of yellow ribbon and cut an inverted "V" at the ends. Hold in place around a small doll's hat and sew, leaving tails at the back. Repeat with a length of slightly narrower ribbon.
2. Trim stems of small fabric flowers and pin them in place on the ribbon at regular intervals around the hat.
3. Sew flowers in place using doubled thread. Finish by sewing the butterfly on the front. Centre the bonnet on the card and attach by sewing through the brim of the hat, and knotting threads on the inside of the card. A small dab of glue will secure the knots.
Faberge Egg Card
1. Use a ready-made 3-fold card with an oval, egg-shaped window. Place double-sided tape around the window edges inside the card. Peel off the backing and attach a strip of gold lace. Cut a piece of satin slightly larger than the aperture, and stick it down so the satin side shows through the window.
2. Glue a large, jewel-like bead in the centre of the egg. Arrange beads, sequin leaves and petals, then glue in position. Tweezers will make it easier to place the decorations accurately.
3. Finish with a smear of rubber-based glue around the edge of the egg on the outside. Leave for a moment to become tacky, then press down the gold braid firmly. Neatly trim the braid.
Keep in mind that sequins and satin add a touch of glamour to a special card!!!
Spring Bouquet
1. The bouquet that you can create on a card can be made up of coloured gummed paper squares torn into simple shapes. Cut a rectangle of white cardboard 38 x 25.5cm. Score across the centre width wise using a craft knife. Fold the card in half along the scored line.
2. All the shapes have straight edges. Press a ruler across a gummed square, lift one edge of the ruler to tear it neatly. Now tear across the paper again, either diagonally or straight across, to form the shapes.
3. Arrange the pieces on the front of the card within a border of narrow strips and squares. Moisten the back of the gummed pieces to stick them in position. Try creating other designs using this method.
By torn pieces of gummed squares you can make up many colourful collages.
Quilted Lilies
1. To make this piece of quilting, you will need a ready-printed cotton panel, about 10cm square, and very thin wadding (batting) to back the panel. Pin the panel to a slightly larger square of wadding. Then cut cardboard 45 x 15cm, and score two folds 15cm apart.
2. On a larger piece of work, muslin would be used as a backing fabric. Working from the centre, tack (baste) the two layers together, making sure the picture covers the wadding.
3. Starting from the centre, with a knot on the back, outline the picture with tiny running stitches. Finish the thread with a double backstitch. Take out the tacking stitches. Measure the finished piece and cut a window from the centre of the 3-fold card. With double-sided tape, stick down the quilted panel and the front flap of card.
The above simple quilted piece depicts traditional Easter Lilies.
Daffodil Delight
1. Cut a piece of cardboard 22cm square, then score and fold at 11cm. Cut out a window 9 x 16.5cm. Trace daffodils from a catalogue or book, and transfer on to cartridge paper. Paint with transfer paints. When dry, place over a square of polyester fabric and press with a hot dry iron for two minutes. Carefully lift off the paper.
2. Place the print in an embroidery frame the opposite way from hand embroidery, and pull until taut. To machine embroider, use the same thread on the top and the bobbin. Take off the presser foot and drop the "feed dog" so you will be able to move the work freely. Place the embroidery ring under the needle and drop the pressure lever.
3. Moving the machine wheel by hand, draw up the bobbin thread to the top and hold it to start. Move ring, keeping your fingers on the edge of the frame and slowly paint with your needle. Sew the outline first, then colour in. Experiment with different stitches. Press on the reverse side, mount with double-sided tape and back with white paper.
Sew a Daffodil picture to make into a card or place in a frame.
Bunny Egg Warmer
1. This cute little bunny can be popped over a soft-boiled egg to keep it warm. First cut out two bunny shapes in white felt. Cut the ears from pink felt, the waistcoat from yellow, and the nose and eyes from black. Glue them in place. Embroider the mouth and whiskers in black thread. Glue on sequins for the buttons and the eyes.
2. Take a piece of ribbon 5cm long and glue the ends together to form a loop. Tie a piece of thread tightly around the middle of the ribbon to form a bow, and sew it to the rabbit between the mouth and the top of the waistcoat.
3. With the wrong sides facing, sew the front and back felt pieces together along the edge, using a blanket stitch.
Make a breakfast - time bunny to bring cheer to Easter morning for your children.
Chirpy Chicks
1. Cut out a chick in lemon-coloured cardboard, creating a tab at the bottom of the chick's body. Cut out a beak and feet in orange cardboard. Glue the beak to the chick and draw the eyes with a black felt-tipped pen.
2. Write the name of your guest with a pencil diagonally on the chick using a letter stencil. Fill in the letters with a felt-tipped pen.
3. Score a sliver of the cardboard along the bottom of the chick's body and bend the tab backward at a right angle. Glue the tab to the chick's feet.
You can use these chicks to guide your guests to their seats.
Now I am working on something new; soon I will give you some more ideas!
Easter Bonnet Card
1. Cut a piece of cardboard 15 x 22cm, score and fold to 11cm. Cut a length of yellow ribbon and cut an inverted "V" at the ends. Hold in place around a small doll's hat and sew, leaving tails at the back. Repeat with a length of slightly narrower ribbon.
2. Trim stems of small fabric flowers and pin them in place on the ribbon at regular intervals around the hat.
3. Sew flowers in place using doubled thread. Finish by sewing the butterfly on the front. Centre the bonnet on the card and attach by sewing through the brim of the hat, and knotting threads on the inside of the card. A small dab of glue will secure the knots.
Faberge Egg Card
1. Use a ready-made 3-fold card with an oval, egg-shaped window. Place double-sided tape around the window edges inside the card. Peel off the backing and attach a strip of gold lace. Cut a piece of satin slightly larger than the aperture, and stick it down so the satin side shows through the window.
2. Glue a large, jewel-like bead in the centre of the egg. Arrange beads, sequin leaves and petals, then glue in position. Tweezers will make it easier to place the decorations accurately.
3. Finish with a smear of rubber-based glue around the edge of the egg on the outside. Leave for a moment to become tacky, then press down the gold braid firmly. Neatly trim the braid.
Keep in mind that sequins and satin add a touch of glamour to a special card!!!
Spring Bouquet
1. The bouquet that you can create on a card can be made up of coloured gummed paper squares torn into simple shapes. Cut a rectangle of white cardboard 38 x 25.5cm. Score across the centre width wise using a craft knife. Fold the card in half along the scored line.
2. All the shapes have straight edges. Press a ruler across a gummed square, lift one edge of the ruler to tear it neatly. Now tear across the paper again, either diagonally or straight across, to form the shapes.
3. Arrange the pieces on the front of the card within a border of narrow strips and squares. Moisten the back of the gummed pieces to stick them in position. Try creating other designs using this method.
By torn pieces of gummed squares you can make up many colourful collages.
Quilted Lilies
1. To make this piece of quilting, you will need a ready-printed cotton panel, about 10cm square, and very thin wadding (batting) to back the panel. Pin the panel to a slightly larger square of wadding. Then cut cardboard 45 x 15cm, and score two folds 15cm apart.
2. On a larger piece of work, muslin would be used as a backing fabric. Working from the centre, tack (baste) the two layers together, making sure the picture covers the wadding.
3. Starting from the centre, with a knot on the back, outline the picture with tiny running stitches. Finish the thread with a double backstitch. Take out the tacking stitches. Measure the finished piece and cut a window from the centre of the 3-fold card. With double-sided tape, stick down the quilted panel and the front flap of card.
The above simple quilted piece depicts traditional Easter Lilies.
Daffodil Delight
1. Cut a piece of cardboard 22cm square, then score and fold at 11cm. Cut out a window 9 x 16.5cm. Trace daffodils from a catalogue or book, and transfer on to cartridge paper. Paint with transfer paints. When dry, place over a square of polyester fabric and press with a hot dry iron for two minutes. Carefully lift off the paper.
2. Place the print in an embroidery frame the opposite way from hand embroidery, and pull until taut. To machine embroider, use the same thread on the top and the bobbin. Take off the presser foot and drop the "feed dog" so you will be able to move the work freely. Place the embroidery ring under the needle and drop the pressure lever.
3. Moving the machine wheel by hand, draw up the bobbin thread to the top and hold it to start. Move ring, keeping your fingers on the edge of the frame and slowly paint with your needle. Sew the outline first, then colour in. Experiment with different stitches. Press on the reverse side, mount with double-sided tape and back with white paper.
Sew a Daffodil picture to make into a card or place in a frame.
Bunny Egg Warmer
1. This cute little bunny can be popped over a soft-boiled egg to keep it warm. First cut out two bunny shapes in white felt. Cut the ears from pink felt, the waistcoat from yellow, and the nose and eyes from black. Glue them in place. Embroider the mouth and whiskers in black thread. Glue on sequins for the buttons and the eyes.
2. Take a piece of ribbon 5cm long and glue the ends together to form a loop. Tie a piece of thread tightly around the middle of the ribbon to form a bow, and sew it to the rabbit between the mouth and the top of the waistcoat.
3. With the wrong sides facing, sew the front and back felt pieces together along the edge, using a blanket stitch.
Make a breakfast - time bunny to bring cheer to Easter morning for your children.
Chirpy Chicks
1. Cut out a chick in lemon-coloured cardboard, creating a tab at the bottom of the chick's body. Cut out a beak and feet in orange cardboard. Glue the beak to the chick and draw the eyes with a black felt-tipped pen.
2. Write the name of your guest with a pencil diagonally on the chick using a letter stencil. Fill in the letters with a felt-tipped pen.
3. Score a sliver of the cardboard along the bottom of the chick's body and bend the tab backward at a right angle. Glue the tab to the chick's feet.
You can use these chicks to guide your guests to their seats.
Now I am working on something new; soon I will give you some more ideas!
Make your own Halloween Treat Bags
By Christina VanGinkel
Making crafts around the holidays is always a fun activity for the young and old alike. One of my favorites for Halloween are Treat Bags that are easy to make, fun to fill, and kids love to get them instead of the traditional piece of candy or small treat. Make up a few to give to your favorite Trick or Treaters or to bring to work and decorate your desk with.
Materials needed to make one Halloween Treat Bag include (Multiply by how many you want to make):
Six to eight inch cut circle of Halloween themed or appropriate colored cotton fabric
Fabric can be substituted with orange, black, or white organza, tulle, or other similar fabric
Eight-inch piece of black, white, or orange yarn, four ply
Large round paper wrapped sucker
Assorted bits and pieces of yarn, crafting felt, sequins, pipe cleaners, etc.
Craft glue
Assorted Halloween themed candy (Most important item of all!)
The actual bag part of these is easy to make. Take a circle of fabric and lay out on flat surface. Pile the center of the circle with candy. Fold up all the sides and pick up, so that the bag part is formed around the candy. Give the top a twist or two so that the candy filling is not going to so easily spill out. Holding in one hand, pick up the piece of yarn and tie the bag of candy closed. Set aside.
Next, it is time to decorate the sucker to fit your Halloween themed bag as a topper.
Witch
Witches are my favorite. When you are creating your witch, keep in mind that the sucker is going to be the head of the witch, and size your pieces accordingly. Cut a small black felt circle for the bottom part of your Witches' hat, and set aside. Then take a small scrap of black felt, roll to look like a pointed hat top, running a bit of glue along one edge. One end of the roll will be pointed, while the other will be wider. Once the seam is dry, run a bead of glue around the bottom and stick to the bottom part of the hat, centered as best you can, and let dry. Once the hat is very dry, you can leave as is, or if you have a sharp pair of scissors, cut out the inside of the assembled hat so that it will fit down onto the sucker and not just set on top of it.
Cut some small pieces of green or orange yarn for your witches' hair. Glue these to the side of the sucker. Arrange to look like hair. Glue the hat in place over the hair. Once this is all dry, tuck the sucker's stick handle into the bag. Retie the bag if needed so that it is closed tightly around the stick of the sucker. You can leave as is at this point, or continue to decorate. I always like to add a tiny wand made of nothing more than a toothpick dipped in glue and glitter, but if you will be giving these to young children, skip this part.
Ghost
For a ghost bag, use white fabric or organza. Wrap the sucker in white fabric to match the bag and tie the pieces of fabric both on the bag and around the sucker with white yarn. Make a small hat for the ghost to wear if you wish to give him a bit of character. The hat could be made from just about any colored scraps of fabric you might have. Felt will work best because it will keep its shape. If you wish, take a felt tip marker, fine point, and draw eyes and mouth. You can also make a little sign from a white painted Popsicle stick and stencil or pen on the word Boo!
Use your imagination when creating these Halloween Treat Bags. Create a Frankenstein, bat, or vampire, whatever your imagination leads you to create. If kids are constructing them, provide them with various scraps, supplies, and fabrics and just let them go. As long as the main construction is assembled correctly, they are sure to please, as the candy inside is the most important part of them at this time of the year!
Making crafts around the holidays is always a fun activity for the young and old alike. One of my favorites for Halloween are Treat Bags that are easy to make, fun to fill, and kids love to get them instead of the traditional piece of candy or small treat. Make up a few to give to your favorite Trick or Treaters or to bring to work and decorate your desk with.
Materials needed to make one Halloween Treat Bag include (Multiply by how many you want to make):
Six to eight inch cut circle of Halloween themed or appropriate colored cotton fabric
Fabric can be substituted with orange, black, or white organza, tulle, or other similar fabric
Eight-inch piece of black, white, or orange yarn, four ply
Large round paper wrapped sucker
Assorted bits and pieces of yarn, crafting felt, sequins, pipe cleaners, etc.
Craft glue
Assorted Halloween themed candy (Most important item of all!)
The actual bag part of these is easy to make. Take a circle of fabric and lay out on flat surface. Pile the center of the circle with candy. Fold up all the sides and pick up, so that the bag part is formed around the candy. Give the top a twist or two so that the candy filling is not going to so easily spill out. Holding in one hand, pick up the piece of yarn and tie the bag of candy closed. Set aside.
Next, it is time to decorate the sucker to fit your Halloween themed bag as a topper.
Witch
Witches are my favorite. When you are creating your witch, keep in mind that the sucker is going to be the head of the witch, and size your pieces accordingly. Cut a small black felt circle for the bottom part of your Witches' hat, and set aside. Then take a small scrap of black felt, roll to look like a pointed hat top, running a bit of glue along one edge. One end of the roll will be pointed, while the other will be wider. Once the seam is dry, run a bead of glue around the bottom and stick to the bottom part of the hat, centered as best you can, and let dry. Once the hat is very dry, you can leave as is, or if you have a sharp pair of scissors, cut out the inside of the assembled hat so that it will fit down onto the sucker and not just set on top of it.
Cut some small pieces of green or orange yarn for your witches' hair. Glue these to the side of the sucker. Arrange to look like hair. Glue the hat in place over the hair. Once this is all dry, tuck the sucker's stick handle into the bag. Retie the bag if needed so that it is closed tightly around the stick of the sucker. You can leave as is at this point, or continue to decorate. I always like to add a tiny wand made of nothing more than a toothpick dipped in glue and glitter, but if you will be giving these to young children, skip this part.
Ghost
For a ghost bag, use white fabric or organza. Wrap the sucker in white fabric to match the bag and tie the pieces of fabric both on the bag and around the sucker with white yarn. Make a small hat for the ghost to wear if you wish to give him a bit of character. The hat could be made from just about any colored scraps of fabric you might have. Felt will work best because it will keep its shape. If you wish, take a felt tip marker, fine point, and draw eyes and mouth. You can also make a little sign from a white painted Popsicle stick and stencil or pen on the word Boo!
Use your imagination when creating these Halloween Treat Bags. Create a Frankenstein, bat, or vampire, whatever your imagination leads you to create. If kids are constructing them, provide them with various scraps, supplies, and fabrics and just let them go. As long as the main construction is assembled correctly, they are sure to please, as the candy inside is the most important part of them at this time of the year!
Thursday, October 19, 2006
Run Like You Mean It
In the city of Cincinnati, there are a number of races that are hosted through out the city. Most are hosted in hopes to raise money for a charitable cause or event. Some of the more popular races in the area are the Reggae Run that takes place in Hyde Park and the Racing to Read Run hosted by the Kenton County Public Library in Covington KY. Neither of these races can take the place of the two most popular Cincinnati races, which are the Flying Pig, and the Thanksgiving Day Race. I have run all of the aforementioned 5k races and have learned a few things that I want to share with you so that you can perform your best the next time that you race.
First and fore most, as with any test, weather it is a test of brain power or a test of will, you are going to have to practice. Practice makes perfect, and in this case, practice makes you a lot better. You cannot expect to complete a 5K race in any reasonable time if you have never even walked that distance before. You are going to want to start training at least 30 days before the race. Earlier, depending on your physical condition.
If you hear a gun shot on the street, the first thing that comes to your mind is to run away from the sound of the shot as fast as you can. This would be great way to start a race if you were only running a one hundred meter dash, but you are running over 20 times that length. You do not want to start out sprinting. When you hear the gun shot, indicating the beginning of the race, start off at a trot and gradually work your way up to a comfortable pace.
Once you have just achieved your comfortable pace, you are half way there. You are in a race, remember? Since this is a race that you are in, your ultimate goal should be to finish the race before anyone else. One way to do that is to pass the person in front of you. Because not every one of us can be as fast as we want to be, let us keep our goals small, at first. When running the race, make it your short term goals to pass the person in that is just ahead of you. Once you have passed that person, set your sites on the next person.
One way for you to most efficiently run the race is to breathe I know that this may be a silly thing to remember because we all know that one can not live without breathing. I should be more specific. You want to make sure that your breathing is controlled. When we start to exert ourselves, our body begins to need more oxygen. Sometimes, your brain over compensates and makes you breathe harder than you really need to. If you consciously control your breathing, your body will process the oxygen more efficiently helping you to run the race easier and maybe faster.
The aforementioned four steps should take you more than three quarters of the way though the race. Once this goal is reached, it should literally be all down hill from there. In most races, you should now be able to actually see the finish line. This is where some people let their adrenaline take over. This is great if you are in tip top shape, but for those of use who are novices, letting our adrenaline get the best of us could result in nothing more than a pulled muscle.
So before you let it all out towards the end of the race, make sure you consciously think of all of the elements that have been mentioned. After you have made to you gliding pace, instead of settling for just passing one person at a time, you are going to want to step up your drive and pass two people at a time. All the while making sure that you regulate your breathing so that you do not let your brain take over and try to take in more air than your body needs. Now you should be less then two hundred meters from the finish. You can now hear the band playing and the crowd cheering you on. Oh what the heck, this is when you can let it all out and sprint the rest of the way until you reach the finish line. Finish hard or go home!
First and fore most, as with any test, weather it is a test of brain power or a test of will, you are going to have to practice. Practice makes perfect, and in this case, practice makes you a lot better. You cannot expect to complete a 5K race in any reasonable time if you have never even walked that distance before. You are going to want to start training at least 30 days before the race. Earlier, depending on your physical condition.
If you hear a gun shot on the street, the first thing that comes to your mind is to run away from the sound of the shot as fast as you can. This would be great way to start a race if you were only running a one hundred meter dash, but you are running over 20 times that length. You do not want to start out sprinting. When you hear the gun shot, indicating the beginning of the race, start off at a trot and gradually work your way up to a comfortable pace.
Once you have just achieved your comfortable pace, you are half way there. You are in a race, remember? Since this is a race that you are in, your ultimate goal should be to finish the race before anyone else. One way to do that is to pass the person in front of you. Because not every one of us can be as fast as we want to be, let us keep our goals small, at first. When running the race, make it your short term goals to pass the person in that is just ahead of you. Once you have passed that person, set your sites on the next person.
One way for you to most efficiently run the race is to breathe I know that this may be a silly thing to remember because we all know that one can not live without breathing. I should be more specific. You want to make sure that your breathing is controlled. When we start to exert ourselves, our body begins to need more oxygen. Sometimes, your brain over compensates and makes you breathe harder than you really need to. If you consciously control your breathing, your body will process the oxygen more efficiently helping you to run the race easier and maybe faster.
The aforementioned four steps should take you more than three quarters of the way though the race. Once this goal is reached, it should literally be all down hill from there. In most races, you should now be able to actually see the finish line. This is where some people let their adrenaline take over. This is great if you are in tip top shape, but for those of use who are novices, letting our adrenaline get the best of us could result in nothing more than a pulled muscle.
So before you let it all out towards the end of the race, make sure you consciously think of all of the elements that have been mentioned. After you have made to you gliding pace, instead of settling for just passing one person at a time, you are going to want to step up your drive and pass two people at a time. All the while making sure that you regulate your breathing so that you do not let your brain take over and try to take in more air than your body needs. Now you should be less then two hundred meters from the finish. You can now hear the band playing and the crowd cheering you on. Oh what the heck, this is when you can let it all out and sprint the rest of the way until you reach the finish line. Finish hard or go home!
Sony Cyber-Shot DSC-H5 Digital Camera
By Jessica TakachLast year, I was on a quest for the perfect digital camera. I spent nearly six months reading reviews, longingly carressing camera cases and memory cards in Best Buy, and interrogating family and friends on their own digital cameras. I wanted something with some power--I was tired of having a little camera with limited possibilities.
My most desired feature was zoom. I wanted lots of zoom since, living in Maine, there is quite a lot of wildlife to photograph. But with my old camera the animals usually just looked like a pin point on the horizon. I was also interested in megapixels, although frankly I think they are overrated. Unless you plan on making large posters regularly with your photos, a higher megapixel is not really necessary.
So, I finally decided on the Sony Cyber Shot DSC-H5 Digital Camera. And I am loving it. I took it on a trip up to northern Maine this past summer and was able to take FANTASTIC photos of moose from all the way across a lake. They came out as though I were standing right next to them. The camera has a 12x optical zoom with image stabilization.
This camera also has the option of using the controls manually, which I admit I haven't really progressed to yet. But this is a good testament to the fact that you can use this camera very much like a point and shoot, but it can take some very classy photographs.
I rarely ever have blurry photos, thanks to the image stabilization. The only time this really happens is in very low light at night, and that can be a real pain. But it does have a night time setting, as well as many others like: action for sports, candlelight, portrait, and quite a few others.
Another nice feature is that you can get lots of accessories! If you want to spend even more money, you can get different lenses and filters to put on the end of this camera. Again, I haven't experimented much with this due primarily to the money factor, but it is nice to know that if I get to that level I can go there.
I have taken photos of birds that are 30 feet away or so, and I can zoom in on their individual feathers. It is truly an amazing experience. It is also great for catching candids of your friends.
This is an absolutely perfect camera for someone who is a beginner, but intends to go farther with their abilities as a photographer. You can use this simply as a point and shoot, or for more professional photos. There is a great 2.5 inch display screen on the back, so you can view your photos with ease.
Another nice feature is that the camera takes video. Depending on the size of your memory card (I would recommend at least a 1GB) you can take quite a lot of video time. It works quite well for being mostly a still photo camera, although I have noticed that sometimes it has trouble focusing and will blur a little. But I have gotten some really great video (for instance, in Hawaii, of dolphins) when otherwise I wouldn't have been able to.
Complaints:
My only complaint is something that is really quite uncontrolable and no fault of Sony's. It is too large to fit in a small handbag for going out at night -- and regardless, I probably wouldn't want to risk taking it out with me anyway. But this is simply a limitation of the technology. The camera is incredibly powerful, therefore it has to be a bit bigger than other cameras to contain the larger lens. One day hopefully the technology will get to the point that I can fit a camera this great into my clutch! Until that day, I'll just have to use a bigger bag.
Other than that, one thing to note is that this camera takes rechargable AA batteries. I thought this would be a good thing, but it has turned out to be a MAJOR pain. You constantly have to be recharging batteries and have a back up supply with you at all times. I've lost my recharger, so I have been using regular AA batteries which die very fast. So, just make sure you keep track of your charger and you should be fine, but in the future I will probably try and find a camera with a regular long lasting camera battery.
Overall rating: A-
Tuesday, October 17, 2006
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Monday, October 16, 2006
A Beginner's Guide To Keeping A Pet Snake
By Simon Woodhouse
Though snakes may not sit on your lap like a cat, or shower you with affection like a dog, they still make excellent pets. Peering into a tank and watching a reptile slowly slither around definitely has a soothing affect. A well maintained habitat, with dark, shadowy nooks and crannies, will always catch the eye. And even when motionless, the markings on a snake still make it something pleasing to look at.
But just like keeping any other living creature as a pet, snakes require the proper care and attention. You may not need to take your snake for a walk, or provide it with furry toys to play with, you will, however, need to know exactly what it requires to live a healthy, happy life. Unlike a dog or a cat, when a snake is unhappy or unwell, it won't look all that much different from when it's full of the joys of life and on top of the world. So it's down to you to know what it needs, when it needs it and how much. But before all of that, it's important to choose the right snake for you.
For a beginner, it's better to choose a snake that's easy to handle and also quite robust. Another important consideration is size, not the size it is when you see it in the pet store, but the size it might be in ten years time. The corn snake is a good choice for a beginner. They have a comparatively docile temperament, grow to not much more than five feet in length, and are robust enough to tolerate being cared for by a novice. Another plus point for the corn snake is its looks. They are an attractive animal, and though there are color variations, their most common skin pattern consists of a series of red, black-bordered blotches on an orange background.
Ok, so now you've got your snake, you need something to put it in. A normal aquarium tank will do the job, but you must consider the size. An adult corn snake will require a tank no less than three feet long, and one and a half feet wide. Underneath this you'll need to put a low-powered heat mat. Snakes are cold-blooded, and so don't perform at all well in cooler temperatures. But on the other hand, they don't like to be too hot either. To cope with this rather finicky nature, make sure your heat mat only measures about one third of the floor space of the tank. This allows for the creation of a 'thermal gradient', and lets the snake find the ideal spot that's not too hot and not too cold. Besides liking just the right temperature, snakes also like to hide. You might want to watch your snake slithering around the tank, but if you don't provide it with a nice shadowy nook to hide in, it'll feel under constant threat from predators (it's not smart enough to know there aren't any in the tank with it). This will cause it stress, and a stressed snake is a poorly snake. Luckily, snakes aren't fussy about where they hide, so if you don't want to buy a specially molded snake hide from the pet store, a piece of curved cork bark or an empty cereal box will do. Make sure the hiding place is half on and half off the heat mat, so the snake will be able to hide and feel comfortable as well. All you need now is a water bowl at the opposite end to the heat mat, and a few sheets of newspaper covering the floor of the tank.
At last you're getting to a point where your setup is beginning to take shape. You've got a snake, you've got somewhere to put it, now you need something to put in it - snake food. Snakes are carnivores, which means they eat meat. But unlike cats and dogs, they've not been domesticated to the point where they'll eat whatever you give them. Snakes still like to eat the same thing as they would in the wild. In the case of the corn snake, that means mice. Luckily, most captive snakes will happily eat dead mice. These can be obtained frozen from the pet store, then thawed out and dropped in the tank. Frozen mice come in three types - pinkies, fuzzies and adults. The age of your snake will dictate the type of mice it eats. Pinkies are baby mice without any fur, and they're ideal for young snakes. Fuzzies are a bit bigger, and so best suited to slightly older snakes. Lastly, adults snakes eat adult mice, simple really. A quick word of advice here. For the benefit of the snake, and to aid the digestion of its dinner, it's best not to handle it for two or three days after it's eaten.
Now you've got the habitat setup and the food sorted out, there's really not much else to do except sit back and enjoy your pet. This is where keeping a snake has the advantage over most other pets - they're fascinating to watch and be around, but if you know what you're doing they require little day-to-day effort to look after. Running the heat pad under the tank probably cost about 10c a day, and mice being what they are (easy to breed), means the pet store aren't going to charge you a fortune for snake food. What you will probably find however, is one snake won't be enough. But then again most hobbies tend to grow as you get into them, and in the case of your snake, you'll see that happening right before your eyes.
Though snakes may not sit on your lap like a cat, or shower you with affection like a dog, they still make excellent pets. Peering into a tank and watching a reptile slowly slither around definitely has a soothing affect. A well maintained habitat, with dark, shadowy nooks and crannies, will always catch the eye. And even when motionless, the markings on a snake still make it something pleasing to look at.
But just like keeping any other living creature as a pet, snakes require the proper care and attention. You may not need to take your snake for a walk, or provide it with furry toys to play with, you will, however, need to know exactly what it requires to live a healthy, happy life. Unlike a dog or a cat, when a snake is unhappy or unwell, it won't look all that much different from when it's full of the joys of life and on top of the world. So it's down to you to know what it needs, when it needs it and how much. But before all of that, it's important to choose the right snake for you.
For a beginner, it's better to choose a snake that's easy to handle and also quite robust. Another important consideration is size, not the size it is when you see it in the pet store, but the size it might be in ten years time. The corn snake is a good choice for a beginner. They have a comparatively docile temperament, grow to not much more than five feet in length, and are robust enough to tolerate being cared for by a novice. Another plus point for the corn snake is its looks. They are an attractive animal, and though there are color variations, their most common skin pattern consists of a series of red, black-bordered blotches on an orange background.
Ok, so now you've got your snake, you need something to put it in. A normal aquarium tank will do the job, but you must consider the size. An adult corn snake will require a tank no less than three feet long, and one and a half feet wide. Underneath this you'll need to put a low-powered heat mat. Snakes are cold-blooded, and so don't perform at all well in cooler temperatures. But on the other hand, they don't like to be too hot either. To cope with this rather finicky nature, make sure your heat mat only measures about one third of the floor space of the tank. This allows for the creation of a 'thermal gradient', and lets the snake find the ideal spot that's not too hot and not too cold. Besides liking just the right temperature, snakes also like to hide. You might want to watch your snake slithering around the tank, but if you don't provide it with a nice shadowy nook to hide in, it'll feel under constant threat from predators (it's not smart enough to know there aren't any in the tank with it). This will cause it stress, and a stressed snake is a poorly snake. Luckily, snakes aren't fussy about where they hide, so if you don't want to buy a specially molded snake hide from the pet store, a piece of curved cork bark or an empty cereal box will do. Make sure the hiding place is half on and half off the heat mat, so the snake will be able to hide and feel comfortable as well. All you need now is a water bowl at the opposite end to the heat mat, and a few sheets of newspaper covering the floor of the tank.
At last you're getting to a point where your setup is beginning to take shape. You've got a snake, you've got somewhere to put it, now you need something to put in it - snake food. Snakes are carnivores, which means they eat meat. But unlike cats and dogs, they've not been domesticated to the point where they'll eat whatever you give them. Snakes still like to eat the same thing as they would in the wild. In the case of the corn snake, that means mice. Luckily, most captive snakes will happily eat dead mice. These can be obtained frozen from the pet store, then thawed out and dropped in the tank. Frozen mice come in three types - pinkies, fuzzies and adults. The age of your snake will dictate the type of mice it eats. Pinkies are baby mice without any fur, and they're ideal for young snakes. Fuzzies are a bit bigger, and so best suited to slightly older snakes. Lastly, adults snakes eat adult mice, simple really. A quick word of advice here. For the benefit of the snake, and to aid the digestion of its dinner, it's best not to handle it for two or three days after it's eaten.
Now you've got the habitat setup and the food sorted out, there's really not much else to do except sit back and enjoy your pet. This is where keeping a snake has the advantage over most other pets - they're fascinating to watch and be around, but if you know what you're doing they require little day-to-day effort to look after. Running the heat pad under the tank probably cost about 10c a day, and mice being what they are (easy to breed), means the pet store aren't going to charge you a fortune for snake food. What you will probably find however, is one snake won't be enough. But then again most hobbies tend to grow as you get into them, and in the case of your snake, you'll see that happening right before your eyes.
Using Index Prints in your Crafts
By Christina VanGinkel
The first time I came across the option in a graphics program to print an index card of thumbnail sized pictures, I thought that was nice, but nothing I would ever have a use for. Sure, I backed up my photos and a digital index was occasionally a choice, but this was different, this was the option to print an index of thumbnail sized pictures from my printer. Considering how small an index sized print is, I just did not think I would ever have a use for such a size print. I knew there were manufactured bracelets and necklaces made especially for using such tiny pictures, but had never considered using them in typical craft or scrapbook projects, or in an altered project.
Filmstrips
Not long after, I was working on a scrapbook layout of my son's undefeated football season and had a border my daughter had given me to use that looked like a filmstrip. It was not a purchased strip but one she had printed on a strip of vellum from a piece of computer clipart. I remembered the index prints and thought if I could print the filmstrip border just a bit smaller than she had printed it, it would be an ideal fit for several index-sized prints. It not only worked, it created a very interesting embellishment for the layout. I used a team photo from the year as the focus of the layout, and then included several index prints of the different fields they played on throughout the year, seven in total, and combined them with snapshots of the scoreboards throughout the year.
When choosing which photos to use, I learned that when choosing pictures to work with, look for those that offer up a close-up of the subject, or is such a typical view, as the football fields and scoreboards are, otherwise you risk losing so much detail in the tiny format that the picture will be unrecognizable.
Altered Compass Necklace
With several extra index sized prints leftover from my son's football layout, I pondered what else I could do with these portraits in miniature. I still have them in a small container on my scrapping table, yet undecided about their fate. However, as I pondered their destiny, I considered all the other photos that I could print a sheet of index prints of, and concluded how adorable a tiny index sized print of my grandson would look on an altered necklace. I had an old compass that though it no longer worked, I had been reluctant to toss, so it had joined my stash of things I might someday use in my crafting. I decided to make it into a necklace with my grandson as the focal point. It had a hinged cover, so I determined that I would alter the outside of it and leave the inside of it as is. The cover was altered by attaching the index sized print of my grandson and the words Love is the Compass of Life. I formatted the words in a graphics program so that they would wind around the print when I fit the index print on top of the printed words, on top of the compass cover. I took the printing one-step further and printed them on clear vellum. (I borrowed this idea from the filmstrips for the simple reason that I loved the way printing looked on the vellum). I then ran them through my X shaped sticker maker from Xyron, with a permanent adhesive fill, so that I would not have to fuss with glue that would show through the vellum. Note: Before attaching the text and picture, I first lightly sanded the cover so that they would adhere well. I also took apart another old compass that a friend contributed to the project when she found out what I was doing, and used the compass point on the exterior as an embellishment. I strung the finished piece on a gold cord and the finished piece is lovely. Someone else suggested I apply a clear lacquer over the entire cover, but I have been reluctant to do so, unsure how the lacquer would affect both the vellum I printed on and the metal cover. If I decide to try it, I will test it on as mall spot on the inside of the cover first, so as not to ruin what I have done so far.
The first time I came across the option in a graphics program to print an index card of thumbnail sized pictures, I thought that was nice, but nothing I would ever have a use for. Sure, I backed up my photos and a digital index was occasionally a choice, but this was different, this was the option to print an index of thumbnail sized pictures from my printer. Considering how small an index sized print is, I just did not think I would ever have a use for such a size print. I knew there were manufactured bracelets and necklaces made especially for using such tiny pictures, but had never considered using them in typical craft or scrapbook projects, or in an altered project.
Filmstrips
Not long after, I was working on a scrapbook layout of my son's undefeated football season and had a border my daughter had given me to use that looked like a filmstrip. It was not a purchased strip but one she had printed on a strip of vellum from a piece of computer clipart. I remembered the index prints and thought if I could print the filmstrip border just a bit smaller than she had printed it, it would be an ideal fit for several index-sized prints. It not only worked, it created a very interesting embellishment for the layout. I used a team photo from the year as the focus of the layout, and then included several index prints of the different fields they played on throughout the year, seven in total, and combined them with snapshots of the scoreboards throughout the year.
When choosing which photos to use, I learned that when choosing pictures to work with, look for those that offer up a close-up of the subject, or is such a typical view, as the football fields and scoreboards are, otherwise you risk losing so much detail in the tiny format that the picture will be unrecognizable.
Altered Compass Necklace
With several extra index sized prints leftover from my son's football layout, I pondered what else I could do with these portraits in miniature. I still have them in a small container on my scrapping table, yet undecided about their fate. However, as I pondered their destiny, I considered all the other photos that I could print a sheet of index prints of, and concluded how adorable a tiny index sized print of my grandson would look on an altered necklace. I had an old compass that though it no longer worked, I had been reluctant to toss, so it had joined my stash of things I might someday use in my crafting. I decided to make it into a necklace with my grandson as the focal point. It had a hinged cover, so I determined that I would alter the outside of it and leave the inside of it as is. The cover was altered by attaching the index sized print of my grandson and the words Love is the Compass of Life. I formatted the words in a graphics program so that they would wind around the print when I fit the index print on top of the printed words, on top of the compass cover. I took the printing one-step further and printed them on clear vellum. (I borrowed this idea from the filmstrips for the simple reason that I loved the way printing looked on the vellum). I then ran them through my X shaped sticker maker from Xyron, with a permanent adhesive fill, so that I would not have to fuss with glue that would show through the vellum. Note: Before attaching the text and picture, I first lightly sanded the cover so that they would adhere well. I also took apart another old compass that a friend contributed to the project when she found out what I was doing, and used the compass point on the exterior as an embellishment. I strung the finished piece on a gold cord and the finished piece is lovely. Someone else suggested I apply a clear lacquer over the entire cover, but I have been reluctant to do so, unsure how the lacquer would affect both the vellum I printed on and the metal cover. If I decide to try it, I will test it on as mall spot on the inside of the cover first, so as not to ruin what I have done so far.
Smart Ways to Save on Scrapbook Supplies
By Christina VanGinkel
How many times have you reached for an inkpad that you paid top dollar for and have only used once or twice to find it dry as a bone? Or opened up a bottle or applicator of glue and you cannot believe it feels empty, because you know you just bought it? Not to mention embellishments and paper that go out of style before you even reach the bottom of the pack, sometimes before you even open them.
For this last issue, one of the best pieces of advice I ever received when it comes to buying craft supplies in general, is to ask yourself is you are buying something because you have a use for it, really like it, or just because it is the newest craze? Scrappers can be a very social group of crafters, and it is easy to fall prey to the buy factor of those around you. Do not buy a whole line of papers or even a single sheet, because someone else likes it. Buy a whole line or that single sheet because you like it, or you know it will complement such and such a picture perfectly. The same holds true for tools. Die cutting machines for example are an expense that some scrappers and crafters qualify by the sheer volume of projects they create. If you are a casual scrapper, and have a tight budget, if you end up creating one or two titles a year with such a machine, consider how expensive each of those would be if you considered in the cost of the machine and dies before plunking down that cash just because everyone else you know has one.
I also cannot tell you how many times I have been tempted to buy a whole pack of paper because I liked one of the patterns in it. Single sheets of paper may cost more than paper by the pack, but unless you are going to use the majority of the sheets in a pack, consider how much the sheets you do use will cost you if you break them down by the overall cost. For example, if you pay ten dollars for a pack of twenty-five sheets of 12 x 12 patterned papers, the overall cost equals 40 cents a sheet. However, if you only ultimately use ten sheets of that paper, that 40 cents a sheet skyrockets to one dollar a sheet if you break the cost down to only those sheets of paper you used. Sure, you could trade those unused sheets with a friend or at a crop, or even sell them on a site such as Ebay, but the average scrapbook devotee or crafter will most likely leave those fifteen sheets of unused paper in a stack in their craft room, never doing anything with them. Some extra paper is nice, but pack after pack is just a waste, both in money spent and space used to store it.
I also combat the wasted paper syndrome by buying in bulk with at least one other person. In my case, this is usually with my daughter. We will split evenly whatever it is we buy that comes in a size package that is more than one of us will use. This applies to packs of paper and embellishments. We also share several tools this way, including a Wishblade die cutting machine. We split the cost, and just swap the tools back and forth as needed. This should only be done with somebody that you know it will not cause more issues with than good though.
Inkpads can be dry from the minute you open them. Because of this, buy from local dealers or stores, or from a company that backs their inkpads with a warranty, such as the one offered by the Stampin' Up Company. They offer a guarantee that their products will be free from manufacturing defects for a period of 90 days after the shipping date. If you are shopping out of town, open any inkpads you purchase before heading home. If there is a problem with them, return them immediately. Once you get your inkpads home, storing them upside down will help keep the ink at the top of the pad. I also keep mine in a Ziploc style bag to keep them as airtight as possible, which helps keep them from drying out prematurely.
I have not found a tried and true solution to applicators of craft glue drying out other than I also store them in Ziploc style bags. Make sure that covers are on tight. Pen style applicators often come with caps that need to be twisted on and if you just snap the lid on without taking the time to twist them shut as the caps were intended, this too will lead to prematurely drying out.
How many times have you reached for an inkpad that you paid top dollar for and have only used once or twice to find it dry as a bone? Or opened up a bottle or applicator of glue and you cannot believe it feels empty, because you know you just bought it? Not to mention embellishments and paper that go out of style before you even reach the bottom of the pack, sometimes before you even open them.
For this last issue, one of the best pieces of advice I ever received when it comes to buying craft supplies in general, is to ask yourself is you are buying something because you have a use for it, really like it, or just because it is the newest craze? Scrappers can be a very social group of crafters, and it is easy to fall prey to the buy factor of those around you. Do not buy a whole line of papers or even a single sheet, because someone else likes it. Buy a whole line or that single sheet because you like it, or you know it will complement such and such a picture perfectly. The same holds true for tools. Die cutting machines for example are an expense that some scrappers and crafters qualify by the sheer volume of projects they create. If you are a casual scrapper, and have a tight budget, if you end up creating one or two titles a year with such a machine, consider how expensive each of those would be if you considered in the cost of the machine and dies before plunking down that cash just because everyone else you know has one.
I also cannot tell you how many times I have been tempted to buy a whole pack of paper because I liked one of the patterns in it. Single sheets of paper may cost more than paper by the pack, but unless you are going to use the majority of the sheets in a pack, consider how much the sheets you do use will cost you if you break them down by the overall cost. For example, if you pay ten dollars for a pack of twenty-five sheets of 12 x 12 patterned papers, the overall cost equals 40 cents a sheet. However, if you only ultimately use ten sheets of that paper, that 40 cents a sheet skyrockets to one dollar a sheet if you break the cost down to only those sheets of paper you used. Sure, you could trade those unused sheets with a friend or at a crop, or even sell them on a site such as Ebay, but the average scrapbook devotee or crafter will most likely leave those fifteen sheets of unused paper in a stack in their craft room, never doing anything with them. Some extra paper is nice, but pack after pack is just a waste, both in money spent and space used to store it.
I also combat the wasted paper syndrome by buying in bulk with at least one other person. In my case, this is usually with my daughter. We will split evenly whatever it is we buy that comes in a size package that is more than one of us will use. This applies to packs of paper and embellishments. We also share several tools this way, including a Wishblade die cutting machine. We split the cost, and just swap the tools back and forth as needed. This should only be done with somebody that you know it will not cause more issues with than good though.
Inkpads can be dry from the minute you open them. Because of this, buy from local dealers or stores, or from a company that backs their inkpads with a warranty, such as the one offered by the Stampin' Up Company. They offer a guarantee that their products will be free from manufacturing defects for a period of 90 days after the shipping date. If you are shopping out of town, open any inkpads you purchase before heading home. If there is a problem with them, return them immediately. Once you get your inkpads home, storing them upside down will help keep the ink at the top of the pad. I also keep mine in a Ziploc style bag to keep them as airtight as possible, which helps keep them from drying out prematurely.
I have not found a tried and true solution to applicators of craft glue drying out other than I also store them in Ziploc style bags. Make sure that covers are on tight. Pen style applicators often come with caps that need to be twisted on and if you just snap the lid on without taking the time to twist them shut as the caps were intended, this too will lead to prematurely drying out.
Sunday, October 15, 2006
Make your own Rub-Ons for Scrapbooking and Paper Crafting
By Christina VanGinkel
If you have ever wanted to place a title or image on a layout, but the layout was of a size that it would not fit in your printer, or you had wanted to use a rub-on, but could not find the one you wanted, make your own! If you have a computer with an inkjet printer, a simple graphics program or word processor, and a blank transparency, all you need to do is add a popsicle stick to the mix and you will have everything you need to make your own transparencies whenever and of whatever you want.
The process is actually quite simple. Basically, you print on the wrong side, or glossy side, of a transparency in reverse, allow to dry thoroughly, and apply the same as you would any other rub-on.
For those of you, who need a bit more direction, follow along and before you know it, you will be making all the transparencies you could ever need or want.
NOTE: I have heard that this same process will work in a laser printer, but I have not tried it so cannot vouch for that process. I would recommend to those who wish to try it with their laser printer, to be sure that they only use a transparency sheet that is made for a laser printer, as a laser printer becomes warm and the wrong transparency could melt, ruining your printer.
Pick up a pack of transparencies that are made for use in an inkjet printer. Next, in a graphics program or word processing program such as Microsoft word, choose or design your title or graphic. This can be color or black. For the first couple that you make, I would recommend that you choose a somewhat simple design just for the sake of ease when applying it to your layout or project that you plan to use it on.
Once you have your title or graphic ready on screen, determine if your printer has a reverse printing option, otherwise you will need to flip the title or graphic in the program it was made in. If you do not flip it or print it in reverse through the printer setting, any text you print will be backwards when applied. Reversing a graphic might not be an issue, especially if the graphic is symmetrical from the front or back, but if you plan to make many of your own rub-ons, it might be best to get in the habit of reversing or flipping them all, so you do not forget this step when it is important.
Be sure your printer's print quality is set to its highest or best setting. This will assure that an optimum amount of ink is applied during the printing process and will guarantee that the finished rub-on will be as good a quality as you could make.
Once you have double-checked the image or text is flipped or will be printed in reverse and the print quality is set to the highest level, place your transparency in your printer wrong side up. A transparency consists of two sides, one a bit rougher than the other. This would normally be the side you would print on, but not when you are making your own rub-ons. You will want to print on the smooth side.
When it comes out of the printer, be sure you do not touch the text or image as it will be wet and will stay wet much longer than you would think. Avoid touching it, as it will smear quite easily. If you hold the transparency on its edge and look at it, you will be able to see the wetness, To check it for dryness, look at it the same way as tempting as it might be to touch it to check it for dryness. Place it somewhere to dry where it will not fall to the floor or risk having anything set on it by accident.
Once it is dry, apply it face down where you want to use it, and with the rounded edge of the popsicle stick, rub the backside of the transparency until it is moved from the transparency to the paper. Wipe the transparency clean, and it can be reused many times.
If you have ever wanted to place a title or image on a layout, but the layout was of a size that it would not fit in your printer, or you had wanted to use a rub-on, but could not find the one you wanted, make your own! If you have a computer with an inkjet printer, a simple graphics program or word processor, and a blank transparency, all you need to do is add a popsicle stick to the mix and you will have everything you need to make your own transparencies whenever and of whatever you want.
The process is actually quite simple. Basically, you print on the wrong side, or glossy side, of a transparency in reverse, allow to dry thoroughly, and apply the same as you would any other rub-on.
For those of you, who need a bit more direction, follow along and before you know it, you will be making all the transparencies you could ever need or want.
NOTE: I have heard that this same process will work in a laser printer, but I have not tried it so cannot vouch for that process. I would recommend to those who wish to try it with their laser printer, to be sure that they only use a transparency sheet that is made for a laser printer, as a laser printer becomes warm and the wrong transparency could melt, ruining your printer.
Pick up a pack of transparencies that are made for use in an inkjet printer. Next, in a graphics program or word processing program such as Microsoft word, choose or design your title or graphic. This can be color or black. For the first couple that you make, I would recommend that you choose a somewhat simple design just for the sake of ease when applying it to your layout or project that you plan to use it on.
Once you have your title or graphic ready on screen, determine if your printer has a reverse printing option, otherwise you will need to flip the title or graphic in the program it was made in. If you do not flip it or print it in reverse through the printer setting, any text you print will be backwards when applied. Reversing a graphic might not be an issue, especially if the graphic is symmetrical from the front or back, but if you plan to make many of your own rub-ons, it might be best to get in the habit of reversing or flipping them all, so you do not forget this step when it is important.
Be sure your printer's print quality is set to its highest or best setting. This will assure that an optimum amount of ink is applied during the printing process and will guarantee that the finished rub-on will be as good a quality as you could make.
Once you have double-checked the image or text is flipped or will be printed in reverse and the print quality is set to the highest level, place your transparency in your printer wrong side up. A transparency consists of two sides, one a bit rougher than the other. This would normally be the side you would print on, but not when you are making your own rub-ons. You will want to print on the smooth side.
When it comes out of the printer, be sure you do not touch the text or image as it will be wet and will stay wet much longer than you would think. Avoid touching it, as it will smear quite easily. If you hold the transparency on its edge and look at it, you will be able to see the wetness, To check it for dryness, look at it the same way as tempting as it might be to touch it to check it for dryness. Place it somewhere to dry where it will not fall to the floor or risk having anything set on it by accident.
Once it is dry, apply it face down where you want to use it, and with the rounded edge of the popsicle stick, rub the backside of the transparency until it is moved from the transparency to the paper. Wipe the transparency clean, and it can be reused many times.
Saturday, October 14, 2006
A Comic Book Collector
Much like many couples, when I first met and married my husband, there were things about him I simply did not know until after we were married. Most of the things were just little habits or nuances about his personality that really were no big deal. One of the things, however, was his collection (I call it an obsession) with comic books. It seems my darling husband began collecting comic books at about the age of twelve. When I married him, he was twenty-seven, and still collecting, very proud of the fact that he had been collecting for a total of fifteen years. My husband was in the Navy when we first got married, and he spent between ten and twenty dollars each week going to the local comic book store in the various towns in which we lived. He had special white boxes, about the size of shoe boxes, only taller, that were made especially for storing comic books. Not only that, but each and every comic, after he had read it, was put into a special plastic sleeve that would protect it as it spent the rest of its life in one of the many white boxes.
At first, I thought it was sort of cute how every Thursday afternoon, after the new comics arrived at the local store, he would come home with his bag of comics and read them diligently. I recognized many of the names of the characters: the Hulk, Superman, the Fantastic Four. He introduced me to the ones I had never heard of: the X-men, and various others. There were times when money was a bit tight, but the comic books were always, without fail, part of our budget. It was simply something that was part of our lives. Twice my husband left for 6-month deployments with the Navy, and during the duration of the deployment, dutiful wife that I am, I visited the comic book store once a week, picked out my husbands favorite comic books and sent them to him in care packages once a month. I got to know the owner of the store and I found that my husband was not the only adult who collected comic books. In fact, it seemed that more adults were collecting than kids. This was fascinating to me.
As the years passed, the comic books kept coming. As the children came, my husband educated them on the importance of the comic book characters and how we can learn from them. He bought the children X-men and Hulk figurines and tried to get our son interested in collecting. Our son is now nineteen-years-old, but never seemed to latch on to the hobby like his dad. Whenever a comic book movie came out, we were the first ones in the theater to see it, and I have come to have an appreciation for the movies and the characters, because I have an expert who sits next to me as we watch the movie; he keeps me informed about the history of the characters, the sometimes hidden meanings behind issues they face, and of course he points out when something is not quite accurate. Our biggest inside joke is to watch one of the "less than accurate" comic book movies and point out how unrealistic it is.
I will never completely understand the hold these comic book heroes have on my husband. I know he is a romantic at heart and today, well into his 40s, he is still visiting the local comic book store every week. We have one entire closet filled with boxes of comic books. About once a year, he takes many of them out and re-reads them or re-organizes them. I have learned that the comic stories my husband reads are more like graphic soap operas with very real and sometimes tragic themes. These are not the funny books of the past, but a very clear parallel to what is going on in our society today. Comic book collecting is more than just a hobby of collecting colorful books; it is keeping up with an awareness of what is going on around us politically, socially, and culturally.
Yet, I do not know what we are going to do in a few years when we run out of closet space. Maybe the comic book heroes will help us?
At first, I thought it was sort of cute how every Thursday afternoon, after the new comics arrived at the local store, he would come home with his bag of comics and read them diligently. I recognized many of the names of the characters: the Hulk, Superman, the Fantastic Four. He introduced me to the ones I had never heard of: the X-men, and various others. There were times when money was a bit tight, but the comic books were always, without fail, part of our budget. It was simply something that was part of our lives. Twice my husband left for 6-month deployments with the Navy, and during the duration of the deployment, dutiful wife that I am, I visited the comic book store once a week, picked out my husbands favorite comic books and sent them to him in care packages once a month. I got to know the owner of the store and I found that my husband was not the only adult who collected comic books. In fact, it seemed that more adults were collecting than kids. This was fascinating to me.
As the years passed, the comic books kept coming. As the children came, my husband educated them on the importance of the comic book characters and how we can learn from them. He bought the children X-men and Hulk figurines and tried to get our son interested in collecting. Our son is now nineteen-years-old, but never seemed to latch on to the hobby like his dad. Whenever a comic book movie came out, we were the first ones in the theater to see it, and I have come to have an appreciation for the movies and the characters, because I have an expert who sits next to me as we watch the movie; he keeps me informed about the history of the characters, the sometimes hidden meanings behind issues they face, and of course he points out when something is not quite accurate. Our biggest inside joke is to watch one of the "less than accurate" comic book movies and point out how unrealistic it is.
I will never completely understand the hold these comic book heroes have on my husband. I know he is a romantic at heart and today, well into his 40s, he is still visiting the local comic book store every week. We have one entire closet filled with boxes of comic books. About once a year, he takes many of them out and re-reads them or re-organizes them. I have learned that the comic stories my husband reads are more like graphic soap operas with very real and sometimes tragic themes. These are not the funny books of the past, but a very clear parallel to what is going on in our society today. Comic book collecting is more than just a hobby of collecting colorful books; it is keeping up with an awareness of what is going on around us politically, socially, and culturally.
Yet, I do not know what we are going to do in a few years when we run out of closet space. Maybe the comic book heroes will help us?
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